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	<title>dispatches from here &#187; photos</title>
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	<description>wherever i am...</description>
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		<title>Lost in Pasuruan, Indonesia</title>
		<link>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2010/12/16/lost-in-pasuruan-indonesia/</link>
		<comments>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2010/12/16/lost-in-pasuruan-indonesia/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 16 Dec 2010 16:00:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ano</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[everything]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Indonesia]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[photos]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://anobelodisho.com/blog/?p=634</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Where? Surubaya is the second largest city in Indonesia, a congested, crowded, hot, sweaty mess. It was my gateway to Mount Bromo and the Ijen Plateau, home of Kawah Ijen and a completely bizarre sulfuric acid volcanic lake (pics coming soon). Getting to to Probolinggo, the closest big city to Ijen (and still 6 hours [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p> Where? Surubaya is the second largest city in Indonesia, a congested, crowded, hot, sweaty mess. It was my gateway to Mount Bromo and the Ijen Plateau, home of Kawah Ijen and a completely bizarre sulfuric acid volcanic lake (pics coming soon). Getting to to Probolinggo, the closest big city to Ijen (and still 6 hours away!) led me through the town of Pasuruan, where I stopped to meander around the night market and get some food.  </p>
<p><div id="attachment_635" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 510px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/Pasuaran-1.jpg" rel="lightbox[634]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/Pasuaran-1-500x196.jpg" alt="" title="Surubaya Traffic" width="500" height="196" class="size-medium wp-image-635" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Driving in Surubaya, one of the larger cities on the Indonesian island of Java, is pretty un-nerving. Lights and lanes are only for decoration, as everyone jockeys for an extra inch of space.</p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_637" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 510px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/Pasuaran-2.jpg" rel="lightbox[634]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/Pasuaran-2.jpg" alt="" title="Fresh satay" width="500" class="size-full wp-image-637" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">The five minute wait for fresh chicken satay is pure torture, exacerbated by the delicious smell and smoke being flapped into your face. Once they're ready, they're coated in peanut sauce, and packaged with a rice ball in a banana leaf. Perfect! Pasuaran street market, Java, Indonesia</p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_638" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/Pasuaran-3.jpg" rel="lightbox[634]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/Pasuaran-3.jpg" alt="" title="Warungs" width="900" height="537" class="size-full wp-image-638" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Warungs, informal restuarants/food stands are one of the best places to grab a bite of Indonesian food, with literally hundreds to choose from at this night market.</p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_639" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/Pasuaran-4.jpg" rel="lightbox[634]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/Pasuaran-4.jpg" alt="" title="Warung" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-639" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">The menu: rice, noodles, and lots of fried things. All delicious. My ordering strategy? Randomly guessing, which almost always leaves with me delicious food (as long as you have an open mind!)</p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_640" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/Pasuaran-5.jpg" rel="lightbox[634]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/Pasuaran-5.jpg" alt="" title="Service" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-640" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Fresh cooked food served at this open air warung, where the only seating is a flimsy metal counter with a couple of stools. Pasuaran, Java, Indonesia</p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_641" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/Pasuaran-6.jpg" rel="lightbox[634]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/Pasuaran-6.jpg" alt="" title="Dinner" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-641" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Chicken and rice, so basic, so common, but somehow, so irresistably delicious. Pasuaran, Java, Indonesia.</p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_642" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/Pasuaran-7.jpg" rel="lightbox[634]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/Pasuaran-7.jpg" alt="" title="Date Night" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-642" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">A couple sits for a Friday night date at the neighboring warung, with the romantic atmosphere provided by the metal counter, harsh fluorescent light, and with only a hand-painted sheet separating them from the busy street behind them.</p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_643" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/Pasuaran-8.jpg" rel="lightbox[634]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/Pasuaran-8.jpg" alt="" title="Deep Fried Goodness" width="900" height="564" class="size-full wp-image-643" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Hard at work overseeing the distribution of all things deep fried. And maybe helpig himself to a few bits here and there.</p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_644" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/Pasuaran-9.jpg" rel="lightbox[634]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/Pasuaran-9.jpg" alt="" title="Sesame Treat" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-644" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Delicious deserts line the Pasuaran night market, bustling with activity on a Friday night. I couldn't get enough of this sweet chewy sesame coated deliciousness.</p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_645" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/Pasuaran-10.jpg" rel="lightbox[634]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/Pasuaran-10.jpg" alt="" title="Prepping Dessert" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-645" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">I must have eaten dessert six times that night.</p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_646" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/Pasuaran-111.jpg" rel="lightbox[634]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/Pasuaran-111.jpg" alt="" title="Bike Taxi" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-646" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Powering these heavy, slowly decaying, home-made bike taxis takes a lot of work, which explains why they're all parked while their drivers sit around and enjoy the warm evening.</p></div><!-- PHP 5.x --></p>
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		<title>Eastern Bali, and such</title>
		<link>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2010/11/29/eastern-bali-and-such/</link>
		<comments>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2010/11/29/eastern-bali-and-such/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 29 Nov 2010 16:00:06 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ano</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[everything]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Bali]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[beach]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[farm]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mountain]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[photos]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://anobelodisho.com/blog/?p=594</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Eastern Bali is a mountainous playground with lush green fields terraced into the hillsides. Near the coast, it flattens out and rice paddies grow into the horizon, interrupted only by small villages. I rented a scooter and drove drove drove. Pretty hard to get lost when there&#8217;s only one main highway connecting the island.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Eastern Bali is a mountainous playground with lush green fields terraced into the hillsides. Near the coast, it flattens out and rice paddies grow into the horizon, interrupted only by small villages. I rented a scooter and drove drove drove. Pretty hard to get lost when there&#8217;s only one main highway connecting the island.</p>
<div id="attachment_606" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 510px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/EasternBali-4.jpg" rel="lightbox[594]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/EasternBali-4-500x333.jpg" alt="" title="Gas Station" width="500" height="333" class="size-medium wp-image-606" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Short on petrol for your scooter? The only places to re-fuel in this town are roadside stands, selling 1 liter at a time.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_604" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/EasternBali-2.jpg" rel="lightbox[594]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/EasternBali-2.jpg" alt="" title="Padangbai" width="900" height="767" class="size-full wp-image-604" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Meandering down the street market (is there any other kind?) in Padangbai, East Bali.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_605" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/EasternBali-3.jpg" rel="lightbox[594]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/EasternBali-3.jpg" alt="" title="Offerings" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-605" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Small offerings play an important role in Balinese religion. Too busy to make your own? Swing by the market to pick some up!</p></div>
<div id="attachment_603" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/EasternBali-11.jpg" rel="lightbox[594]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/EasternBali-11.jpg" alt="" title="Offerings" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-603" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">This must be a popular shrine, as everyone has jockeyed for a spot to place their offering.</p></div>
<p><div id="attachment_607" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/EasternBali-5.jpg" rel="lightbox[594]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/EasternBali-5.jpg" alt="" title="Playground" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-607" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Playground in Padangbai, Bali. I think thats a Mickey Mouse of sorts.</p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_608" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/EasternBali-6.jpg" rel="lightbox[594]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/EasternBali-6.jpg" alt="" title="Pagoda" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-608" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">A little pagoda poking out in this quiet little bay, Eastern Bali</p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_609" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/EasternBali-7.jpg" rel="lightbox[594]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/EasternBali-7.jpg" alt="" title="Fertility" width="900" height="596" class="size-full wp-image-609" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Despite the worst drought in 20 years, the Balinese landscape remains lush and green, carefully terraced for farming.</p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_610" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/EasternBali-8.jpg" rel="lightbox[594]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/EasternBali-8.jpg" alt="" title="Volcanic mountain" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-610" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">An inactive volcano oversees this fertile valley.</p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_611" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/EasternBali-9.jpg" rel="lightbox[594]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/EasternBali-9.jpg" alt="" title="Farming" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-611" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">A small plot of farmland has been carved out of the forest, and carefully terraced and tended.</p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_612" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/EasternBali-10.jpg" rel="lightbox[594]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/EasternBali-10.jpg" alt="" title="Rice Fields" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-612" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">The rice fields of Eastern Bali</p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_613" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/EasternBali-111.jpg" rel="lightbox[594]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/EasternBali-111.jpg" alt="" title="Old world farming" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-613" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">The terraced rice fields are tended to by hand and plow, using centuries-old farming methods</p></div></p>
<p><div id="attachment_614" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/EasternBali-12.jpg" rel="lightbox[594]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/EasternBali-12.jpg" alt="" title="Fields" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-614" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Derelict shelter in the middle of Balinese rice fields</p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_615" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/EasternBali-13.jpg" rel="lightbox[594]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/EasternBali-13.jpg" alt="" title="Padangbai Sunrise" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-615" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Wading into the warm ocean at sunrise for an early morning scuba dive to catch the fish by surprise!</p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_616" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/EasternBali-14.jpg" rel="lightbox[594]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/EasternBali-14.jpg" alt="" title="Sunset Self Portrait" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-616" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Enjoying the Balinese sunset as slow warm waves lap the beach.</p></div></p>
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		<title>The quiet and chaos of Ubud, Bali</title>
		<link>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2010/11/13/the-quiet-and-chaos-of-ubud-bali/</link>
		<comments>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2010/11/13/the-quiet-and-chaos-of-ubud-bali/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 14 Nov 2010 00:04:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ano</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[everything]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Bali]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Indonesia]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[photos]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://anobelodisho.com/blog/?p=561</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Bali is quiet and relaxing place. And even by those lofty standards, Ubud, the religious and cultural capital of Bali situated in the center of the island, is incredibly mellow. So what better way to take a break from vacation than to spend a few days lounging in Ubud. But of course, nothing is that [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Bali is quiet and relaxing place. And even by those lofty standards, Ubud, the religious and cultural capital of Bali situated in the center of the island, is incredibly mellow. So what better way to take a break from vacation than to spend a few days lounging in Ubud.</p>
<p>But of course, nothing is that simple, not the way I travel. I somehow managed to stumble into the middle of preparations for the annual Spring Full Moon festival. I didn&#8217;t exactly understand all of the details of the festival when they were being explained to me, Or course, but at some point hundreds of years of ago some Balinese thieves were trying to steal <em>something</em> of value, which the Gods did not want stolen. So the full moon fell out of the sky and into a nearby tree, illuminating the landscape and revealing their crime. To protect themselves, one of the thieves urinated on the moon (I&#8217;m not clever enough to make this up), and extinguished it. Alas, he was too late and they were caught, but in the place of the full moon there was a GIANT drum. Since then, this drum has been enshrined in the temple and every year thousands of people gather to celebrate that event, and the full moon.</p>
<div id="attachment_562" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 510px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/20100228-2.jpg" rel="lightbox[561]"><img class="size-medium wp-image-562" title="Monkeys" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/20100228-2-500x258.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="258" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">At first seeing monkeys run around the temples in Bali is quite exciting. Who doesn&#39;t love monkeys? But it quickly becomes routine, and they get bored of protecting their temples from us.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_574" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/20100228-1.jpg" rel="lightbox[561]"><img class="size-full wp-image-574" title="Ubud Fields" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/20100228-1.jpg" alt="" width="900" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Verdant fields of Ubud, Central Bali, that nearly go on forever.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_563" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/20100228-3.jpg" rel="lightbox[561]"><img class="size-full wp-image-563" title="Balinese Temples" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/20100228-3.jpg" alt="" width="900" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Balinese religion, a form of Hinduism, which combines theology, animism and ancestor worship, plays an integral role in daily life. Temples are in particularly high density in Ubud, the reilgious center of Bali.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_564" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/20100228-4.jpg" rel="lightbox[561]"><img class="size-full wp-image-564" title="Balinese Temples" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/20100228-4.jpg" alt="" width="900" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Balinese temples, eerily empty in the mid-afternoon, before the Full Moon Festival</p></div>
<div id="attachment_565" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/20100228-5.jpg" rel="lightbox[561]"><img class="size-full wp-image-565" title="Fertility" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/20100228-5.jpg" alt="" width="900" height="780" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Offerings made to the God and Goddess of fertility in a Balinese Temple in Ubud</p></div>
<div id="attachment_566" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/20100228-6.jpg" rel="lightbox[561]"><img class="size-full wp-image-566" title="Cooking for the ceremony" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/20100228-6.jpg" alt="" width="900" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Balinese men gather and prepare offerings for the Full Moon Festival, Ubud, Bali</p></div>
<div id="attachment_567" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/20100228-7.jpg" rel="lightbox[561]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/20100228-7.jpg" alt="" title="Festival food preparation" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-567" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Preparing offerings for the thousands of expected festival participants.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_568" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/20100228-8.jpg" rel="lightbox[561]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/20100228-8.jpg" alt="" title="Skewers" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-568" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">All of the skewers for the satay are lovingly hand carved, one by one. Makes me feel guilty for the 15 pieces of satay I polished off.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_569" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/20100228-9.jpg" rel="lightbox[561]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/20100228-9.jpg" alt="" title="Meat preparaton, Balinese style" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-569" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Meat preparion on the ground. Oh well, its all gonna be cooked anyway, right?</p></div>
<div id="attachment_570" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/20100228-10.jpg" rel="lightbox[561]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/20100228-10.jpg" alt="" title="Satay Break" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-570" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Making that much satay takes  a team, sitting around for hours and telling stories</p></div>
<div id="attachment_571" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/20100228-11.jpg" rel="lightbox[561]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/20100228-11.jpg" alt="" title="Full Moon Festival" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-571" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Thousands gather for the annual Full Moon Festival in Ubud, Bali. Im not sure how, but somehow I stumbled into the middle of the celebration.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_572" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/20100228-12.jpg" rel="lightbox[561]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/20100228-12.jpg" alt="" title="Full Moon Festival" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-572" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">After requisite dancing and drumming, the thousands of Balinese men and women parade around the Sacred Drum and Full Moon shrine.</p></div>
<p><div id="attachment_573" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/20100228-13.jpg" rel="lightbox[561]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/20100228-13.jpg" alt="" title="Full Moon" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-573" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">The full moon, making its requisite appearance for the annual spring Full Moon Festival. After all the drumming and parading, everyone sits and stares at the moon.</p></div><br />
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		<title>Sunrise at Gunung Batur</title>
		<link>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2010/10/06/sunrise-at-gunung-batur/</link>
		<comments>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2010/10/06/sunrise-at-gunung-batur/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 06 Oct 2010 22:04:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ano</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[everything]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Indonesia]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mountain]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[photos]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[volcano]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://anobelodisho.com/blog/?p=540</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Gunung Batur (Gunung means mountain) sits in the northeastern corner of Bali, one of the many islands that comprise the Indonesian archipelago. It sits at 5,633 feet. What makes it unique is that it is part of a giant double caldera. A caldera is the geologic term for the hole left in the ground after [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Gunung Batur (Gunung means mountain) sits in the northeastern corner of Bali, one of the many islands that comprise the Indonesian archipelago. It sits at 5,633 feet. What makes it unique is that it is part of a giant double caldera. A caldera is the geologic term for the hole left in the ground after a volcano collapses on itself. The peak of Batur sits in the middle of a double caldera, an outer caldera which is 13km by 10km and a smaller inner caldera. In addition, there is a huge lake in the inner caldera. The caldera was formed about 28,000 years ago, which is a blink in geological time.  And above this all, stands the currently active peak of Batur.<br />
</p>
<p>There was a mountain, so I had to climb it. And if I&#8217;m going to climb it with all my camera gear on my back, I better get to the top by sunrise right? I was staying in Ubud, about 90 minutes south of Gunung Batur.<br />
<div id="attachment_541" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 510px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100301-1.jpg" rel="lightbox[540]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100301-1-500x333.jpg" alt="" title="Navigation" width="500" height="333" class="size-medium wp-image-541" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Its tough to find your way to the base of a mountain 90 minutes away in a poorly signed country.  So before I left San Francisco, I had pre-loaded my iPhone with topographic maps of Bali to use with the onboard GPS. I got on my little scooter, 125cc of fury, and used a ball bungee cord (never travel without them!) to strap my iPhone to my scooter handlebars.  Voila, touchscreen GPS navigation in the middle of Indonesia.</p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_542" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100301-2.jpg" rel="lightbox[540]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100301-2.jpg" alt="" title="Directions" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-542" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">The first 60 minutes or so were pretty easy, with GPS and signs, I couldnt go wrong. The last 30 minutes, though, were a different story. First the signs stopped. Then the pavement stopped, and I had muddy dirt roads to deal with, in the dark.  Then the roads stopped, and I found myself riding around backyards, farms and fields.  I could roughly see the mountain in the moonlight, but I had no idea where to start hiking. You're supposed to hire a guide, and hiking without one is strictly prohibited. Which is of course what I wanted to do. So as I was meandering through someone's backyard at 4am, I came across two teenagers on their way home from some ceremony. After a bit of bargaining, they agreed to take me to one of the trailheads and walk me up part of the mountain.  I parked my scooter, dropped a GPS pin so I could find my way back, and set off.</p></div></p>
<p><div id="attachment_543" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100301-3.jpg" rel="lightbox[540]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100301-3.jpg" alt="" title="Midnight on the Mountain" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-543" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Coming up the mountain was incredibly eerie. Without my head lamp it was dark dark, despite the waxing moon, shrouded in mist coming down the mountain at me. On a volcano behind me, I hear a thunderstorm raging with intermittent lightning lighting up my climb.</p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_544" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100301-4.jpg" rel="lightbox[540]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100301-4.jpg" alt="" title="Looking across Lake Batur." width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-544" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Looking across at Lake Batur as dawn creeps up. I still have a few hundred meters of elevation to cover, so I pick up the pace.</p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_545" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100302-5.jpg" rel="lightbox[540]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100302-5.jpg" alt="" title="Sunrise" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-545" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Sunrise from the top of Gunung Batur, looking across the inner caldera and Lake Batur, within the volcano. This sunrise was definitely worth getting up at 2am for. And these are the real colors in the real sky, not photoshopped!</p></div></p>
<p><div id="attachment_546" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100302-6.jpg" rel="lightbox[540]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100302-6.jpg" alt="" title="Batur" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-546" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">The sun rises on Batur, revealing the lush beauty</p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_547" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100302-7.jpg" rel="lightbox[540]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100302-7.jpg" alt="" title="Back down the mountain" width="900" height="455" class="size-full wp-image-547" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">About 2 hours after sunrise, the fog quickly rolls in, obscuring any potential view. </p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_548" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100302-8.jpg" rel="lightbox[540]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100302-8.jpg" alt="" title="Fog In" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-548" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">The fog starts to roll in about 2 hours after sunrise. Not only does it obscure the view of the landscape, it also makes it impossible to find your way back down the mountain with minimal visibility. I guess thats why they make you come with a guide.  Lucky for me, I came with my rugged GPS, which recorded a detailed track of my climb up the mountain.  All I had to do was follow my own track back, easy as pie!</p></div></p>
<p><div id="attachment_549" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100302-9.jpg" rel="lightbox[540]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100302-9.jpg" alt="" title="Caldera" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-549" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">The outer rim of the caldera is visible in the distance, revealing villages and town inside the caldera.</p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_550" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100302-10.jpg" rel="lightbox[540]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100302-10.jpg" alt="" title="Batur" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-550" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">On my way back to Ubud, Batur is visible behind me.  A few hours ago, I was at the top of that pointy bit.</p></div></p>
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		<title>Climbing Mount Kinabalu</title>
		<link>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2010/09/18/climbing-mount-kinabalu/</link>
		<comments>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2010/09/18/climbing-mount-kinabalu/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 19 Sep 2010 02:55:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ano</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[everything]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Borneo]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Malaysia]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mountain]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[photos]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://anobelodisho.com/blog/?p=493</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Borneo. I had the chance to enjoy a little over a week on this giant island divided between three nations (Malaysia, Indonesia, and Brunei). I tromped around the Malaysian portion, climbed a mountain and used an offshore oil platform as a scuba diving base to get to Sipadan. View Larger Map Mount Kinabalu is the [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Borneo. I had the chance to enjoy a little over a week on this giant island divided between three nations (Malaysia, Indonesia, and Brunei). I tromped around the Malaysian portion, climbed a mountain and used an offshore oil platform as a scuba diving base to get to Sipadan.</p>
<p><iframe width="425" height="350" frameborder="0" scrolling="no" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" src="http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&amp;source=s_q&amp;hl=en&amp;geocode=&amp;q=mount+kinabalu&amp;sll=37.0625,-95.677068&amp;sspn=46.005754,63.193359&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;hq=&amp;hnear=Mt+Kinabalu,+Kundasang,+Ranau,+Sabah,+Malaysia&amp;t=p&amp;ll=2.152814,112.456055&amp;spn=15.324188,18.676758&amp;z=5&amp;output=embed"></iframe><br /><small><a href="http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&amp;source=embed&amp;hl=en&amp;geocode=&amp;q=mount+kinabalu&amp;sll=37.0625,-95.677068&amp;sspn=46.005754,63.193359&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;hq=&amp;hnear=Mt+Kinabalu,+Kundasang,+Ranau,+Sabah,+Malaysia&amp;t=p&amp;ll=2.152814,112.456055&amp;spn=15.324188,18.676758&amp;z=5" style="color:#0000FF;text-align:left">View Larger Map</a></small></p>
<p>Mount Kinabalu is the highest peak on the island (13,435 ft) and looms over Kota Kinabalu, the capital of the Malaysian state of Sabah in Borneo. Its a decent two day climb to the summit, but the number of climbers is tightly restricted and the waiting list is at least 3 months long.  In my usual fashion, I flew in from Kuala Lumpur with no reservations and no plans. I took a cab to the permit office straight from the airport, bag in tow, hoping for some sort of miracle.  And it happened. The woman in line in front of me canceled her permit for the following day, and I was lucky enough to get her spot.  Now on to the hotel to unpack and prep for my climb!<br />
<div id="attachment_498" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100311-11.jpg" rel="lightbox[493]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100311-11.jpg" alt="" title="Mt Kinabalu" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-498" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Off into the distance stands Mt Kinabalu, menacing, taunting. Staring me down. </p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_499" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100311-2.jpg" rel="lightbox[493]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100311-2.jpg" alt="" title="Climbing Up" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-499" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">The hike is long. But long is ok. What kills is the steepness. The uphill portion...well, the whole thing is uphill. About 99.5% of the trail is uphill. Painful.</p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_500" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100311-3.jpg" rel="lightbox[493]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100311-3.jpg" alt="" title="20100311-3" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-500" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Borneo is an incredibly bio-diverse island, with over 4000 species of plants. The first day of hiking feels like you've walked into a pre-historic jungle, with dense trees poking through waves of mist and fog</p></div></p>
<div id="attachment_501" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100311-4.jpg" rel="lightbox[493]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100311-4.jpg" alt="" title="Halfway Up" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-501" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Halfway up the mountain on the first day with evening clouds rolling in. The true peak is never visible.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_502" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100311-5.jpg" rel="lightbox[493]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100311-5.jpg" alt="" title="Above the clouds" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-502" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">At the halfway point, settled in at the camp/lodge.  Looking down on the clouds and the rest of the world, from 10,000 feet.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_503" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100311-6.jpg" rel="lightbox[493]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100311-6.jpg" alt="" title="2 am" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-503" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">In order to make the summit by sunrise, I got up early and started hiking at 2am. One benefit...with only a few hours of sleep and an early start, your body doesn't have enough time to get sore. That comes later and lasts a week.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_504" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100311-7.jpg" rel="lightbox[493]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100311-7.jpg" alt="" title="Starry Sky" width="900" height="529" class="size-full wp-image-504" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">3am at 12,000 feet. The sky is amazing with a full moon guiding the hand over hand climb up the side of the mountain. The downside of climbing up a mountain at 3 in the morning? Even with a full moon, its REALLY dark, with the headlamp only lighting up a short distance ahead of you as you climb patiently and painfully into the darkness.</p></div>
<p><div id="attachment_505" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100311-8.jpg" rel="lightbox[493]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100311-8.jpg" alt="" title="The Peak" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-505" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Made it the top an hour before sunrise. Altitude: 4100m according to my GPS. It was hot and sweaty at the base. But the summit is freezing. Even after putting my gloves on, my fingers ache, then get numb, and stop doing what I tell them.  It makes using my camera incredibly difficult.</p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_506" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100311-9.jpg" rel="lightbox[493]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100311-9.jpg" alt="" title="sunrise" width="900" height="327" class="size-full wp-image-506" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Sunrise from Low's Peak at 4100 meters, seeing individual rays as they peak over the horizon. </p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_507" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100312-10.jpg" rel="lightbox[493]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100312-10.jpg" alt="" title="Mount Kinabalu" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-507" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Early dawn from Low's Peak on Mt. Kinabalu, overlooking the world below.  This is the first time I'm seeing the harsh, barren, bare rock terrain that I spent the last 4 hours climbing in the dark.</p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_508" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100312-11.jpg" rel="lightbox[493]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100312-11.jpg" alt="" title="Kinabalu" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-508" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">My fingers are starting to thaw as the sun wakes up.</p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_509" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100312-12.jpg" rel="lightbox[493]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100312-12.jpg" alt="" title="South Peak" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-509" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">South Peak, situated below Low's Peak.</p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_510" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100312-13.jpg" rel="lightbox[493]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100312-13.jpg" alt="" title="Peak" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-510" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Standing at Low's Peak, overlooking the world below.</p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_511" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100312-14.jpg" rel="lightbox[493]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100312-14.jpg" alt="" title="Shadow" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-511" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">As the sun rose behind me, the mountain casts a giant shadow across the Earth.</p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_512" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100312-15.jpg" rel="lightbox[493]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100312-15.jpg" alt="" title="South Peak" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-512" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">The barren face of South Peak </p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_513" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 863px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100312-16.jpg" rel="lightbox[493]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100312-16.jpg" alt="" title="Steep" width="853" height="900" class="size-full wp-image-513" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Did I mention how steep the climb was? Hard to appreciate in the dark, but looking back up the way I came was a little frightening.</p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_515" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100312-18.jpg" rel="lightbox[493]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/20100312-18.jpg" alt="" title="Fall" width="900" height="600" class="size-full wp-image-515" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Coming down the mountain gives a consistent feeling of falling off of the face of the mountain onto the little towns below. Maybe this is why my mom gets anxious when I take trips.</p></div></p>
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		<title>Off to Nusa Lembongan, Bali</title>
		<link>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2010/04/12/off-to-nusa-lembongan-bali-2/</link>
		<comments>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2010/04/12/off-to-nusa-lembongan-bali-2/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 12 Apr 2010 20:04:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ano</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[everything]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[where am i?]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Bali]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Indonesia]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[photos]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://anobelodisho.com/blog/?p=464</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[It comes in bunches, I suppose. Its somewhat rare to have even a free weekend during internship, and when they arrive they&#8217;re called &#8220;golden weekends&#8221;. But then comes that one elusive month of vacation, randomly assigned, eagerly awaited, and given in one straight chunk. With no idea when my next trip would be after this [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>It comes in bunches, I suppose. Its somewhat rare to have even a free weekend during internship, and when they arrive they&#8217;re called &#8220;golden weekends&#8221;.  But then comes that one elusive month of vacation, randomly assigned, eagerly awaited, and given in one straight chunk. With no idea when my next trip would be after this one, I made sure to maximize it.</p>
<p>I had no real plans in place except for my flights there and back. I took my packed bag with me to work on the day of departure. It had been an unusually busy week at work but  at 7pm I was done and on my way out. I changed into street clothes, dumped my scrubs locker room hamper, left the hospital and headed straight to the airport.</p>
<p>The final itinerary? SFO to Las Vegas (for the weekend), then straight to Bali, then Java, Borneo, Singapore, and back to Vegas for another weekend before heading home to SF the night before I had to go back to work.  Pictures and stories to come, as I get to them. Thirty two days of non-stop travel with a camera in hand has left with me way too many pictures to sort through.</p>
<div id="attachment_467" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 510px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/20100225-2.jpg" rel="lightbox[464]"><img class="size-medium wp-image-467" title="View from my room" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/20100225-2-500x333.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="333" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Arrived in Bali after a day and half of planes and airports and hopped on a boat for the 45 minute trip to Nusa Lembongan, a small island off the southeast coast. Its relatively under-developed and doesn&#39;t have a dock. So we had to jump off the boat and wade ashore, with my camera bag held high over my head hoping for a dry trip. From there I walked a hundred meters up the beach to a little spot called Pondok Baruna and was treated to a room just off the water.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_465" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/20100223-1.jpg" rel="lightbox[464]"><img class="size-full wp-image-465" title="Sunset over Bali" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/20100223-1.jpg" alt="" width="900" height="514" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">A little bit of afternoon rain, which broke just in time for an excellent sunset. I waded into warm waist deep water for this shot, which was well worth it.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_466" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/20100224-4.jpg" rel="lightbox[464]"><img class="size-full wp-image-466" title="Scuba" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/20100224-4.jpg" alt="" width="900" height="675" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">I spent a lot of time scuba diving (lots of underwater photos to come), and with water this warm and clear, visibility was consistently amazing (&gt;30 meters)</p></div>
<div id="attachment_471" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/20100226-7.jpg" rel="lightbox[464]"><img class="size-full wp-image-471" title="Seaweed Farm" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/20100226-7.jpg" alt="" width="900" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Seaweed farming is one of the main sources of income in Lembongan. The seaweed is very sensitive and requires relatively calm waters and consistent temperature and salinity, which are provided by protective reefs.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_472" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/20100226-8.jpg" rel="lightbox[464]"><img class="size-full wp-image-472" title="Early morning seaweed farming" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/20100226-8.jpg" alt="" width="900" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">The seaweed is relatively plentiful, and sells for about 20 cents per pound once dried.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_473" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/20100226-9.jpg" rel="lightbox[464]"><img class="size-full wp-image-473" title="Seaweed farm" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/20100226-9.jpg" alt="" width="900" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Its easy to walk around the shallows and tide pools, but the smell can be a bit overpowering.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_474" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/20100226-10.jpg" rel="lightbox[464]"><img class="size-full wp-image-474" title="Seaweed Farmers" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/20100226-10.jpg" alt="" width="900" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Rising early in the morning to harvest seaweed to avoid the harsh afternoon sun.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_475" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/20100226-11.jpg" rel="lightbox[464]"><img class="size-full wp-image-475" title="Small boat" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/20100226-11.jpg" alt="" width="900" height="371" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Tiny boats meander slowly along the coastline.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_475" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/20100225-31.jpg" rel="lightbox[464]"><img class="alignleft size-full wp-image-468" title="Sunrise" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/20100225-31.jpg" alt="" width="900" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Sunrise from Lembongan watching rain drench the Bali mainland ahead.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_469" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/20100226-1.jpg" rel="lightbox[464]"><img class="size-full wp-image-469" title="Dream Beach, Lembongan, Bali" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/20100226-1.jpg" alt="" width="900" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Sunrise over Dream Beach, Lembongan</p></div>
<div id="attachment_476" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/20100226-12.jpg" rel="lightbox[464]"><img class="size-full wp-image-476" title="Dream Beach in the late afternoon" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/20100226-12.jpg" alt="" width="900" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">A bit of rest on Dream Beach after a long day of scuba diving</p></div>
<div id="attachment_470" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/20100226-6.jpg" rel="lightbox[464]"><img class="size-full wp-image-470" title="The Streets of Lembongan" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/20100226-6.jpg" alt="" width="900" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">The stark contrast between simple dirt streets and elaborate temples all throughout Lembongan</p></div>
<div id="attachment_477" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/20100226-13.jpg" rel="lightbox[464]"><img class="size-full wp-image-477" title="Sunset Beach" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/20100226-13.jpg" alt="" width="900" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Sunset Beach, Nusa Lembongan, Bali</p></div>
<p><div id="attachment_480" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/20100226-17.jpg" rel="lightbox[464]"><img class="size-full wp-image-480" title="Sunset Beach" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/20100226-17.jpg" alt="" width="900" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Sunset Beach, Nusa Lembongan, Bali</p></div><!-- PHP 5.x --></p>
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		<title>the streets of Cairo</title>
		<link>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2010/01/02/the-streets-of-cairo/</link>
		<comments>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2010/01/02/the-streets-of-cairo/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 02 Jan 2010 21:57:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ano</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[everything]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[egypt]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[photos]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://anobelodisho.com/blog/?p=428</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The Cairo metro region is home to 18 million people, and probably 20 million by the time you read this. Constant activity, noises, smells, and people, people, everywhere you turn. And every front door and curb and street corner is somebody&#8217;s workshop or storefront. Just finding a spot to sit or stand in the chaos [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The Cairo metro region is home to 18 million people, and probably 20 million by the time you read this. Constant activity, noises, smells, and people, people, everywhere you turn. And every front door and curb and street corner is somebody&#8217;s workshop or storefront. Just finding a spot to sit or stand in the chaos feels like an accomplishment.</p>
<div id="attachment_434" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 510px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/20090409-12.jpg" rel="lightbox[428]"><img class="size-medium wp-image-434" title="bus ride" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/20090409-12-500x333.jpg" alt="egyptian bus ride traffic chaos" width="500" height="333" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Hop right on the bus, pay whoever is standing at the door, and watch all the pedestrians pass you by as you sit in standstill traffic.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_443" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/20090410-41.jpg" rel="lightbox[428]"><img class="size-full wp-image-443" title="mechanic shop" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/20090410-41.jpg" alt="egypt mechanic fix car curb" width="900" height="491" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Who needs a workshop? Sit on a tire in the street.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_442" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/20090410-33.jpg" rel="lightbox[428]"><img class="size-full wp-image-442" title="bike messenger" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/20090410-33.jpg" alt="bike messenger bread" width="900" height="568" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Delivery skills that put hipster San Francisco bike messengers to shame.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_441" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/20090410-22.jpg" rel="lightbox[428]"><img class="size-full wp-image-441" title="hard work" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/20090410-22.jpg" alt="hands grimy dirty mechanic hard work egypt" width="900" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Evidence of a hard day&#39;s work.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_440" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/20090410-7.jpg" rel="lightbox[428]"><img class="size-full wp-image-440" title="break time" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/20090410-7.jpg" alt="" width="900" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">taking a break from carrying boxes and getting a hard time from his friend.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_439" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/20090410-6.jpg" rel="lightbox[428]"><img class="size-full wp-image-439" title="truck" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/20090410-6.jpg" alt="truck loaded full cargo" width="900" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">UPS has nothing on this. </p></div>
<div id="attachment_438" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/20090410-5.jpg" rel="lightbox[428]"><img class="size-full wp-image-438" title="workshop" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/20090410-5.jpg" alt="electrician mechanic workshop" width="900" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">I&#39;m not sure exactly what he fixes at this shop, but I think &#39;everything&#39; would be a good guess.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_444" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/20090410-8.jpg" rel="lightbox[428]"><img class="size-full wp-image-444" title="street" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/20090410-8.jpg" alt="busy cairo egypt street foot traffic packed" width="900" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">the busy street of cairo, where sidewalks are as jammed as the streets.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_445" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/20090410-9.jpg" rel="lightbox[428]"><img class="size-full wp-image-445" title="cloth" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/20090410-9.jpg" alt="cloth egypt cairo awning sale selling" width="900" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Awnings for sale. On the side of the street at midnight. This place literally never sleeps.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_446" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/20090410-10.jpg" rel="lightbox[428]"><img class="size-full wp-image-446" title="scooter" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/20090410-10.jpg" alt="" width="900" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">the only way to get around this place, but I doubt you&#39;d survive. Red lights are only for decoration here.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_447" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/20090410-11.jpg" rel="lightbox[428]"><img class="size-full wp-image-447" title="portrait" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/20090410-11.jpg" alt="man portrait" width="900" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">lots of friendly folks, at least, when they aren&#39;t trying to hustle you.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_448" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/20090410-12.jpg" rel="lightbox[428]"><img class="size-full wp-image-448" title="bus" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/20090410-12.jpg" alt="egypt cairo bus" width="900" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">there is not enough time for buses to stop, so you need a running start to get on one.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_449" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/20090410-13.jpg" rel="lightbox[428]"><img class="size-full wp-image-449" title="traffic circles" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/20090410-13.jpg" alt="traffic circles egypt cairo" width="900" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">one of the larger traffic circles in downtown Cairo.</p></div>
<p><div id="attachment_450" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/20090413-14.jpg" rel="lightbox[428]"><img class="size-full wp-image-450" title="pray" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/20090413-14.jpg" alt="pray islam egypt" width="900" height="549" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">when its time to pray, its time to pray, even if you&#39;re hanging out in the shade of a coke machine.</p></div><!-- PHP 5.x --></p>
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		<title>10 weeks in 3 minutes</title>
		<link>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/05/29/10-weeks-in-3-minutes/</link>
		<comments>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/05/29/10-weeks-in-3-minutes/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 30 May 2009 01:14:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ano</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[where am i?]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[egypt]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[jordan]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Lebanon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[photos]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Syria]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://anobelodisho.com/blog/?p=389</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[As many of you readers know, I spent the 10 weeks starting Feb 12 in the Middle East, through Jordan, Syria, Lebanon, and Egypt. The core of that time was spent in Syria, living in an Iraqi refugee camp and putting together a documentary film (more on that later). To keep things interesting and to [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>As many of you readers know, I spent the 10 weeks starting Feb 12 in the Middle East, through Jordan, Syria, Lebanon, and Egypt. The core of that time was spent in Syria, living in an Iraqi refugee camp and putting together a documentary film (more on that later).  </p>
<p>To keep things interesting and to log my travels, each day I took a photo telling the story of that day somehow. Most of them were done with a tripod and wireless remote, with an occasional bystander snapping the photo.  I tried to switch things up, and the fact that I didn&#8217;t spend much time in the same place helped out.</p>
<p>Check out the complete slideshow below, 10 weeks of daily photos while bopping around the Middle East.  </p>
<p>Hit the play button to get started.</p>
<p><p>
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		<title>Giza!</title>
		<link>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/04/14/giza/</link>
		<comments>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/04/14/giza/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 15 Apr 2009 05:15:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ano</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[everything]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[egypt]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[photos]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://anobelodisho.com/blog/?p=382</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Just catching up, and I may not get a good post in until I get back home.  The next few days entail more ruins/temples in Luxor, a relaxing felucca ride down the Nile, then a hectic taxi+plane+bus+ferry that will hopefully get me into southern Jordan. Some photos from Giza&#8230;.pretty unreal overall.  Going inside the Great [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Just catching up, and I may not get a good post in until I get back home.  The next few days entail more ruins/temples in Luxor, a relaxing felucca ride down the Nile, then a hectic taxi+plane+bus+ferry that will hopefully get me into southern Jordan.</p>
<p>Some photos from Giza&#8230;.pretty unreal overall.  Going inside the Great Pyramid was a little bit underwhelming, but at least now I&#8217;ve been inside the Great Pyramid of Giza.  The area around Cairo is littered with pyramids, with lots more to see&#8230;hopefully I&#8217;ll have a chance to update!</p>
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		<title>Tripoli and the Northern Coast of Lebanon</title>
		<link>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/04/11/tripoli-and-the-northern-coast-of-lebanon/</link>
		<comments>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/04/11/tripoli-and-the-northern-coast-of-lebanon/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 11 Apr 2009 16:38:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ano</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[everything]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Lebanon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[photos]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://anobelodisho.com/blog/?p=375</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[A two day trip up the Lebanese coast to Tripoli followed by a quick hop inland for some wine tasting in Zahle. Tripoli is an ancient Phoenician city dating to before the 7th century BCE.  Since then, its been ruled by the Persians, Seleucids, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Crusaders, Mamluks, and Ottomans.  And it is currently [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>A two day trip up the Lebanese coast to Tripoli followed by a quick hop inland for some wine tasting in Zahle. Tripoli is an ancient Phoenician city dating to before the 7th century BCE.  Since then, its been ruled by the Persians, Seleucids, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Crusaders, Mamluks, and Ottomans.  And it is currently Lebanese, despite Hezbollah attempts to take it over.  In May, 2007 there was fighting between the <a href="http://cache.daylife.com/imageserve/0dqebw3gVk9Hd/610x.jpg" target="_blank">Lebanese Internal Security Forces </a>and <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fatah_al-Islam" target="_blank">Fatah al-Islam</a>, a jihadist militia focused on the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nahr_al-Bared" target="_blank">Nahr el-Bared Palestinian refugee camp</a> just outside the town.  This resulted in the deaths of 170 soldiers, 290 militants, and nearly 50 civilians, along with the destruction of the refugee camp. And in 2008, <a href="http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/middle_east/7394395.stm" target="_blank">Tripoli was the epicenter for a fierce battle</a> between Sunnis loyal to the current government and <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alawites" target="_blank">Alawites</a> (a Shia sect) loyal to Hezbollah.  The Lebanese Army intervened a few days later to put an end to the fighting, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2008_fighting_in_Lebanon" target="_blank">but tensions picked up again in July and over 30 people died</a> in the combined clashes. <a href="http://beirutspring.com/blog/2008/05/12/map-of-conflict-in-tripoli/" target="_blank">Check out this map of hte city breakdown.</a></p>
<p>But for now, in a period of relative peace (despite heavy military presence), Tripoli is a quiet, mellow escape from the glitz of Beirut.</p>
<div class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 490px"><img class="pie-img" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_19_UVol3LJ0/Sd9IJT8_qSI/AAAAAAAABrU/_Pk-RwtfWUo/20090407-7.jpg?imgmax=800" alt="20090407-7.jpg" width="480" height="268" /><p class="wp-caption-text">The coastal town of Tripoli, contested but beautiful.</p></div>
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<div class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 810px"><img class="pie-img" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_19_UVol3LJ0/Sd9H_2p-pxI/AAAAAAAABqk/kyZu2rtb_XQ/20090405-2.jpg?imgmax=800" alt="20090405-2.jpg" width="800" height="533" /><p class="wp-caption-text">In the evenings, the corniche (aka boardwalk) is packed with families and young folks eating cotton candy, and riding bikes.  In the background, young guys drive cruise by in tricked out cars blasting hip hop.</p></div>
<div class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 810px"><img class="pie-img" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_19_UVol3LJ0/Sd9IGZTIieI/AAAAAAAABrE/wMyBW2A5-6Q/20090406-5.jpg?imgmax=800" alt="20090406-5.jpg" width="800" height="533" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Barrels of Lebanese wine being aged in the caves at the Ksara winery, which was established in 1857 by Christian priests.</p></div>
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<div class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 810px"><img class="pie-img" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_19_UVol3LJ0/Sd9IBQRAWeI/AAAAAAAABqs/bkBcobQ785U/20090405-1.jpg?imgmax=800" alt="20090405-1.jpg" width="800" height="533" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Cars and carts selling all sorts of goodies line the corniche.</p></div>
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<div class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 810px"><img class="pie-img" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_19_UVol3LJ0/Sd9IDNEufwI/AAAAAAAABq0/2Gxj-Gc0DlU/20090405-3.jpg?imgmax=800" alt="20090405-3.jpg" width="800" height="533" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Never too young for some hookah/sheesha/nargela</p></div>
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<div class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 810px"><img class="pie-img" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_19_UVol3LJ0/Sd9IFLpN1aI/AAAAAAAABq8/_tbgMhlUcu8/20090406-4.jpg?imgmax=800" alt="20090406-4.jpg" width="800" height="533" /><p class="wp-caption-text">The view from my balcony. And I&#39;m not sure who that laundry belongs to.</p></div>
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<div class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 810px"><img class="pie-img" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_19_UVol3LJ0/Sd9IHstHyhI/AAAAAAAABrM/GbEnm3ZtOc4/20090407-6.jpg?imgmax=800" alt="20090407-6.jpg" width="800" height="450" /><p class="wp-caption-text">The Lebanese coast...beautiful, with some limited access in parts.</p></div>
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		<title>The completely schizophrenic city of Beirut</title>
		<link>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/04/10/the-completely-schizophrenic-city-of-beirut/</link>
		<comments>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/04/10/the-completely-schizophrenic-city-of-beirut/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 10 Apr 2009 14:07:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ano</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[everything]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Beirut]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Lebanon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[photos]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://anobelodisho.com/blog/?p=369</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Lebanon is so radically different from anywhere else in the Middle East and pretty surreal.  A small country with only 4 million people, it continues to trudge on despite a 17 year civil war (1975 &#8211; 1992), war with Israel in 2006, and tensions with Hezbollah (most recently leading to armed conflict in the north [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Lebanon is so radically different from anywhere else in the Middle East and pretty surreal.  A small country with only 4 million people, it continues to trudge on despite a 17 year civil war (1975 &#8211; 1992), war with Israel in 2006, and tensions with Hezbollah (most recently leading to armed conflict in the north in 2007).  So what does that mean?  A strong military presence, remnants of the civil war, and every Western luxury you could imagine.</p>
<p>After spending 6 weeks in Syria (in a refugee camp no less!), arriving in Beirut feels like I&#8217;m in a different universe.  How different is it from Syria?</p>
<ul>
<li>Replace all of the donkeys in the streets of Damascus (there are a lot!)  with Ferraris.</li>
<li>Replace hijabs and chadors with Prada and Gucci.</li>
<li>Replace mud covered shoes with shiny high heels.</li>
<li>Replace sputtering 1975 Fiat taxis with shiny new Mercedes taxis.</li>
<li>Replace the rust stains on the walls with bullet holes, which decorate any building over 20 years old.</li>
<li>Replace pictures of the Syrian president, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bashar_al-Assad" target="_blank">Bashar al-Assad</a>, with Hezbollah billboards and pictures of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hassan_Nasrallah" target="_blank">Hassan Nasrallah.</a></li>
<li>Replace warm, undrinkable local beers with microbrews and $20 cocktails.</li>
<li>Replace all of the shawerma with&#8230;.well, shawerma.  Its still a Middle Eastern country, after all.</li>
</ul>
<p><BR><br />
<div class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 810px"><img class="pie-img" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_19_UVol3LJ0/Sd9ItXMlWXI/AAAAAAAABts/S93gsXOMRMw/20090404-1.jpg?imgmax=800" alt="20090404-1.jpg" width="800" height="533" /><p class="wp-caption-text">A beautiful sunset over the Mediterranean from a balcony in Beirut.</p></div></p>
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<div class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 810px"><img class="pie-img" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_19_UVol3LJ0/Sd9If8e_dvI/AAAAAAAABsw/174zTdVSb08/20090403-2.jpg?imgmax=800" alt="20090403-2.jpg" width="800" height="302" /><p class="wp-caption-text">The Lebanese military maintains a heavy presence in the city, with tanks and machine guns on most corners.  Its a really bizarre sight seeing a woman walk past a row of tanks into a Chanel store. This is the best shot I could get before being stopped by the soldiers.</p></div>
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<div class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 810px"><img class="pie-img" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_19_UVol3LJ0/Sd9IhfpmYEI/AAAAAAAABs4/0QxrIgRLzHg/20090403-3.jpg?imgmax=800" alt="20090403-3.jpg" width="800" height="534" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Bullet holes in blown out buildings surround the new expensive apartment buildings.</p></div>
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<div class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 810px"><img class="pie-img" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_19_UVol3LJ0/Sd9IjexXHZI/AAAAAAAABtA/XgeWleafj4o/20090403-4.jpg?imgmax=800" alt="20090403-4.jpg" width="800" height="533" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Bullet holes in concrete walls, a constant reminder of the painful civil war that tore Beirut apart for 17 years.</p></div>
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<div class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 810px"><img class="pie-img" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_19_UVol3LJ0/Sd9IljtHJ1I/AAAAAAAABtI/WM77AJ8TL4I/20090403-5.jpg?imgmax=800" alt="20090403-5.jpg" width="800" height="533" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Abandoned buildings converted into an urban canvas.</p></div>
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<div class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 810px"><img class="pie-img" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_19_UVol3LJ0/Sd9I-vmXo4I/AAAAAAAABuc/AsZZuKRgUEc/20090407-6.jpg?imgmax=800" alt="20090407-6.jpg" width="800" height="533" /><p class="wp-caption-text">One of the thousands of armed checkpoints all across the city.  Almost as many as Syria.</p></div>
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<div class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 810px"><img class="pie-img" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_19_UVol3LJ0/Sd9Ix0dXlvI/AAAAAAAABuE/3N2e4O63btQ/20090407-8.jpg?imgmax=800" alt="20090407-8.jpg" width="800" height="533" /><p class="wp-caption-text">The southern suburbs of Beirut are essentially controlled by Hezbollah, with yellow and green flags and billboards on every corner and the streets in these poor suburbs are lined with pictures of dead Hezbollah militants.</p></div>
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<div class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 810px"><img class="pie-img" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_19_UVol3LJ0/Sd9I2l2P2TI/AAAAAAAABuM/SIEIT7ETrl4/20090407-9.jpg?imgmax=800" alt="20090407-9.jpg" width="800" height="533" /><p class="wp-caption-text">In the southern Hezbollah controlled suburbs, there are more soldiers/paramilitary forces than civilians it feels.</p></div>
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<div class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 810px"><img class="pie-img" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_19_UVol3LJ0/Sd9IpcAOnaI/AAAAAAAABtY/SDPzJrevFFM/20090403-10.jpg?imgmax=800" alt="20090403-10.jpg" width="800" height="533" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Remnants of civil war.</p></div>
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<div class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 810px"><img class="pie-img" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_19_UVol3LJ0/Sd9Ir0nqpRI/AAAAAAAABtg/ASYE4irp9p4/20090403-11.jpg?imgmax=800" alt="20090403-11.jpg" width="800" height="533" /><p class="wp-caption-text">The Holiday Inn, which during the civil war was the site of a major battle between Christian and Muslim forces.  The blown out shell of this 20+ story building stands right next brand new multimillion dollar condos, modern steel and glass skyscrapers with fancy one word names.</p></div>
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<div class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 810px"><img class="pie-img" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_19_UVol3LJ0/Sd9InHfadCI/AAAAAAAABtQ/_i_Bcd3Eq2s/20090403-12.jpg?imgmax=800" alt="20090403-12.jpg" width="800" height="533" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Beirut is surrounded by water on two sides, and the Corniche, a wide pleasant boardwalk provides a hangout place for young Beirutis.</p></div>
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<div class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 810px"><img class="pie-img" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_19_UVol3LJ0/Sd9IujpSmmI/AAAAAAAABt0/HhEKHQIUxsg/20090404-13.jpg?imgmax=800" alt="20090404-13.jpg" width="800" height="533" /><p class="wp-caption-text">The Mohammad Al-Amin mosque, built next to the burial site of Rafik Harriri, was built in 2008.  Ita huge, shiny, new, clean, and feels like it descended from another world. It feels so magical and out of place, almost like a Disney mosque.</p></div>
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<div class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 810px"><img class="pie-img" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_19_UVol3LJ0/Sd9Iv9YeRVI/AAAAAAAABt8/S2N6-BKgIhU/20090404-14.jpg?imgmax=800" alt="20090404-14.jpg" width="800" height="533" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Downtown Beirut is all glitz and glam, and Ferraris are a dime a dozen.  I almost got run over by one twice!  Porsches, Lamborghinis, Bentleys line the narrow streets of the trendiest neighborhoods as moneyed Beirutis drink and party at bars that rival NYC in exclusivity, with overpriced cocktails, hip sounding names like &quot;Copper&quot; and &quot;Rehab&quot;, and lines around the block. </p></div>
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		<title>American University of Beirut</title>
		<link>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/04/10/american-university-of-beirut/</link>
		<comments>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/04/10/american-university-of-beirut/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 10 Apr 2009 13:36:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ano</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[everything]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Lebanon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[photos]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://anobelodisho.com/blog/?p=367</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The American University of Beirut (AUB) is one of the most prestigious universities in the Middle East.  Established by American missionaries in 1866, this place is completely awesome and feels like any US college campus.  Note to any college students reading this: do a semester abroad here.  All of the classes are taught in English [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The American University of Beirut (AUB) is one of the most prestigious universities in the Middle East.  Established by American missionaries in 1866, this place is completely awesome and feels like any US college campus.  Note to any college students reading this: do a semester abroad here.  All of the classes are taught in English and you hear English and French chatter all over campus.</p>
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<div class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 490px"><img class="pie-img" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_19_UVol3LJ0/Sd9INRNX7qI/AAAAAAAABrs/DVqX0R7-Yv0/20090403-2.jpg?imgmax=800" alt="20090403-2.jpg" width="480" height="320" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Modern buildings, spotlessly clean campus, water fountains, the works.</p></div>
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<div class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 810px"><img class="pie-img" title="Fields" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_19_UVol3LJ0/Sd9IO4o8RnI/AAAAAAAABr0/eAztriVG-L8/20090403-3.jpg?imgmax=800" alt="20090403-3.jpg" width="800" height="533" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Gorgeous athletic fields overlooking the Mediterranean Sea</p></div>
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<div class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 810px"><img class="pie-img" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_19_UVol3LJ0/Sd9IQs-OX1I/AAAAAAAABr8/FDmqQag86SQ/20090403-4.jpg?imgmax=800" alt="20090403-4.jpg" width="800" height="533" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Inside the Bechtel Engineering Building...we have a Bechtel building at Cal as well, but its not as nice as this one.</p></div>
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<div class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 810px"><img class="pie-img" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_19_UVol3LJ0/Sd9ISkqmohI/AAAAAAAABsE/h_55NwB9FRY/20090403-5.jpg?imgmax=800" alt="20090403-5.jpg" width="800" height="533" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Amazing! It seems like 95% of the Middle East consists of chain smokers. Impressive to have a smoke free campus.</p></div>
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<div class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 810px"><img class="pie-img" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_19_UVol3LJ0/Sd9IUeK2UgI/AAAAAAAABsM/4SWDVoH3Kgc/20090403-6.jpg?imgmax=800" alt="20090403-6.jpg" width="800" height="533" /><p class="wp-caption-text">I&#39;d definitely want to do a semester here!</p></div>
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<div class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 810px"><img class="pie-img" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_19_UVol3LJ0/Sd9IY4dLBAI/AAAAAAAABsU/SbOIAw8KNRI/20090403-7.jpg?imgmax=800" alt="20090403-7.jpg" width="800" height="533" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Part of the campus square, with students constantly milling about. The whole campus feels so alive and really indistinguishable from a college campus in the US.</p></div>
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<div class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 810px"><img class="pie-img" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_19_UVol3LJ0/Sd9Ia-VqlCI/AAAAAAAABsc/aO1Ncy7Zs08/20090403-8.jpg?imgmax=800" alt="20090403-8.jpg" width="800" height="533" /><p class="wp-caption-text">A beautiful mix of ultra modern and classic brick buildings.</p></div>
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		<slash:comments>1</slash:comments>
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		<title>Analog Blogging, part 2</title>
		<link>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/04/10/analog-blogging-part-2/</link>
		<comments>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/04/10/analog-blogging-part-2/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 10 Apr 2009 13:26:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ano</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[everything]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[photos]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://anobelodisho.com/blog/?p=364</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Falling a little behind on the blog because life has been moving pretty quickly, bouncing around between countries, and working on the documentary project. But fortunately, I&#8217;ve continued the journal, which is really starting to look and feel awesome.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Falling a little behind on the blog because life has been moving pretty quickly, bouncing around between countries, and working on the documentary project. But fortunately, I&#8217;ve continued the journal, which is really starting to look and feel awesome.</p>
<p><img class="pie-img" title="Analog Blogging, in my indiana jones journal" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_19_UVol3LJ0/Sd9ILF_jyPI/AAAAAAAABrg/4Q3ztnWuroU/20090404-1.jpg?imgmax=800" alt="20090404-1.jpg" width="480" height="259" /><!-- PHP 5.x --></p>
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		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
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		<title>Kha B&#8217;Nisan in Khabur</title>
		<link>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/04/10/kha-bnisan-in-khabur/</link>
		<comments>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/04/10/kha-bnisan-in-khabur/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 10 Apr 2009 11:37:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ano</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[everything]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[photos]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Syria]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://anobelodisho.com/blog/?p=345</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Great party, celebrating, singing and dancing in the hills of Eastern Syria on a gorgeous day.  Exactly what Kha B&#8217;Nisan should be about. It definitely felt a little magical to be able to celebrate it here in Syria, especially because my undergrad honors thesis was about the development of the New Year&#8217;s Festival (Akitu) throughout [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Great party, celebrating, singing and dancing in the hills of Eastern Syria on a gorgeous day.  Exactly what Kha B&#8217;Nisan should be about. It definitely felt a little magical to be able to celebrate it here in Syria, especially because my <a href="http://www.anobelodisho.com/files/Anobel_Odisho_Thesis_Akitu_Festival.pdf">undergrad honors thesis</a> was about the development of the New Year&#8217;s Festival (Akitu) throughout Mesopotamia.</p>
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		<title>Tempting&#8230;</title>
		<link>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/04/03/tempting/</link>
		<comments>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/04/03/tempting/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 03 Apr 2009 11:30:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ano</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[where am i?]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[photos]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://anobelodisho.com/blog/?p=332</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Very very tempting, but I think I&#8217;ll take a left here&#8230;]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="mceTemp mceIEcenter">
<dl id="attachment_336" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 510px;">
<dt class="wp-caption-dt"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/20090329-11-500x430.jpg" mce_src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/20090329-11-500x430.jpg" alt="Very very tempting, but I think I'll take a left here..." title="tempting" class="size-medium wp-image-336" width="500" height="430"></dt>
<dd class="wp-caption-dd">Very very tempting, but I think I&#8217;ll take a left here&#8230;</dd>
</dl>
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		<title>Baptism by Euphrates</title>
		<link>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/04/03/baptism-by-euphrates/</link>
		<comments>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/04/03/baptism-by-euphrates/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 03 Apr 2009 09:20:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ano</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[where am i?]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[photos]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://anobelodisho.com/blog/?p=319</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[On our way to the eastern Syrian town of Hassake, we stopped over in a small town on the Euphrates River called Dier as-Zur for the night.  This has got to be one of the dustiest places I have ever been, with a fresh daily 3mm coat of dust on everything in sight once the [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="attachment_322" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 510px"><a href="http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&amp;source=s_q&amp;hl=en&amp;geocode=&amp;q=+35%C2%B014%2715.58%22N++40%C2%B019%274.93%22E&amp;sll=37.0625,-95.677068&amp;sspn=43.172547,87.011719&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;ll=35.012002,39.462891&amp;spn=5.604402,10.876465&amp;t=h&amp;z=7"><img class="size-medium wp-image-322" title="dieraszur" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/dieraszur-500x354.jpg" alt="The satellite view of the Eastern Syrian Desert.  There's basically lots and lots of sand and rocks, and the green strip bisecting it is the Euphrates river.  Seen from above, you can really appreciate how important it has been throughout antiquity and how it was able to sustain civilization for thousands of years." width="500" height="354" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">The satellite view of the Eastern Syrian Desert.  There&#39;s basically lots and lots of sand and rocks, and the green strip bisecting it is the Euphrates river.  Seen from above, you can really appreciate how important it has been throughout antiquity and how it was able to sustain civilization for thousands of years.</p></div>
<p>On our way to the eastern Syrian town of Hassake, we stopped over in a small town on the Euphrates River called Dier as-Zur for the night.  This has got to be one of the dustiest places I have ever been, with a fresh daily 3mm coat of dust on everything in sight once the sun sets and the winds pick up. It actually hurts to breathe in the evenings and visibility is minimal.</p>
<p>During the day we wandered down to the banks of the Euphrates River and had a chance to see one of the two rivers that defined Mesopotamia and gave birth to the ‘fertile crescent’ and the first civilizations of the ancient Near East.</p>
<p>I came across a group of local kids swimming in the river and couldn’t pass up an opportunity for a baptism in the Euphrates.  Relatively clean water, cool and crisp, wide and slow moving.  A swim in the Euphrates is definitely an unforgettable experience.</p>
<div id="attachment_320" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 510px"><img class="size-medium wp-image-320" title="Euphrates" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/20090327-1-500x321.jpg" alt="The Euphrates at Dier Az Zur. This used to be an old Assyrian village many generations ago (the name means 'Small Church'), but there aren't any left there now.  In the 1990's it turned in a boom town when oil was found nearby.  Local kids were jumping off the bridge into the river, a temptation I was able to avoid.  Those splashed in the river are me...swimming against the slow current." width="500" height="321" /><p class="wp-caption-text">The Euphrates at Dier Az Zur. This used to be an old Assyrian village many generations ago (the name means &#39;Small Church&#39;), but there aren&#39;t any left there now.  In the 1990&#39;s it turned in a boom town when oil was found nearby.  Local kids were jumping off the bridge into the river, a temptation I was able to avoid.  Those splashed in the river are me...swimming against the slow current.</p></div>
<p><div id="attachment_321" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 510px"><img class="size-medium wp-image-321" title="Euphrates" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/20090327-2-500x333.jpg" alt="Swimming with the local kids in the Euphrates!" width="500" height="333" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Swimming with the local kids in the Euphrates!</p></div><!-- PHP 5.x --></p>
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		<title>Bedouin Among the Ruins</title>
		<link>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/04/03/bedouin-among-the-ruins/</link>
		<comments>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/04/03/bedouin-among-the-ruins/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 03 Apr 2009 08:41:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ano</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[everything]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[photos]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[ruins]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Syria]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://anobelodisho.com/blog/?p=312</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Bedouin tents and families are sparsely scattered across the Syrian desert.  Although no longer living as traders and nomads, their homes and dress haven’t changed much and you’ll still see an occasional camel.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Bedouin tents and families are sparsely scattered across the Syrian desert.  Although no longer living as traders and nomads, their homes and dress haven’t changed much and you’ll still see an occasional camel.</p>
<div id="attachment_313" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 510px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/20090326-1.jpg" rel="lightbox[312]"><img class="size-medium wp-image-313" title="Bedouin tent" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/20090326-1-500x333.jpg" alt="Bedouin tent in the desert, just off the side of the ruins in Palmyra" width="500" height="333" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Bedouin tent in the desert, just off the side of the ruins in Palmyra</p></div>
<p><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/20090326-21.jpg" rel="lightbox[312]"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-315" title="Bedouin Tent" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/20090326-21.jpg" alt="Bedouin Tent" width="900" height="600" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/20090326-3.jpg" rel="lightbox[312]"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-316" title="Bedouin Girl" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/20090326-3.jpg" alt="Bedouin Girl" width="900" height="600" /></a><!-- PHP 5.x --></p>
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		<title>Palmyra</title>
		<link>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/04/03/palmyra/</link>
		<comments>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/04/03/palmyra/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 03 Apr 2009 08:23:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ano</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[everything]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://anobelodisho.com/blog/?p=298</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[After a week and half of non-stop interviewing, filming, photographing, editing and translating, the project is nearly complete. In addition to the photodocumentary project I came here to do, I’ve joined forces with Adam Teale to wrap the photos in a short documentary film format. With the bulk of the work behind us, a first [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p class="Left" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 8pt; font-family: Tahoma;" lang="X-NONE">After a week and half of non-stop interviewing, filming, photographing, editing and translating, the project is nearly complete.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In addition to the photodocumentary project I came here to do, I’ve joined forces with <a href="http://www.adamteale.com" target="_blank">Adam Teale</a> to wrap the photos in a short documentary film format.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With the bulk of the work behind us, a first draft of the video completed and reviewed, we decided to leave Damascus and continue exploring Syria.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Damascus definitely has a different feel and atmosphere from the rest of Syria. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It’s a harsh, mean city where everything you try to do is a serious chafe and it seems everyone is out to get you.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It didn’t help that I was living in the refugee camp, which is even worse than the rest of Damascus.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After my fourth week there, I’m pretty excited to get out. </span></p>
<p class="Left" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 8pt; font-family: Tahoma;" lang="X-NONE"> </span></p>
<p class="Left" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 8pt; font-family: Tahoma;" lang="X-NONE">I’ve been pretty busy in Damascus with project related work.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Aside from the refugee health project, I’ve also been working on my MD thesis, which is the physician workforce distribution and health policy research I did in the year between my third and fourth years of med school.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The refugee health project is nearly complete, I just submitted the final version of my thesis (from Damascus and before the deadline!), and now I feel hugely relieved and free to travel.</span></p>
<p class="Left" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 8pt; font-family: Tahoma;" lang="X-NONE"><br />
</span></p>
<p class="Left" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 8pt; font-family: Tahoma;" lang="X-NONE"> </span></p>
<p class="Left" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 8pt; font-family: Tahoma;" lang="X-NONE">Our first stop was Palmyra, about 4 hours by bus from Damascus and one of the most impressive archaeological sites in Syria. Although its mentioned in Assyrian texts from Mari dating to the 2nd millennium BCE, it was incorporated into the Seleucid Empire in the second century AD, and later grew in prosperity under Roman rule. </span></p>
<div id="attachment_299" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090325-1.jpg" rel="lightbox[298]"><img class="size-full wp-image-299" title="On the way" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090325-1.jpg" alt="Riding through four hours of flat, barren desert to Palmyra. Eastern Syria really looks like the photos that the Mars Rovers send back." width="900" height="585" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Riding through four hours of flat, barren desert to Palmyra. Eastern Syria really looks like the photos that the Mars Rovers send back.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_300" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090325-2.jpg" rel="lightbox[298]"><img class="size-full wp-image-300" title="Desert" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090325-2.jpg" alt="Sunset in the desert" width="900" height="567" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Sunset in the desert</p></div>
<p><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090326-3.jpg" rel="lightbox[298]"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-301" title="Palmyra" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090326-3.jpg" alt="Palmyra" width="900" height="600" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090326-5.jpg" rel="lightbox[298]"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-302" title="Palmyra" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090326-5.jpg" alt="Palmyra" width="900" height="600" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090326-6.jpg" rel="lightbox[298]"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-303" title="Palmyra" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090326-6.jpg" alt="Palmyra" width="900" height="600" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/20090326-71.jpg" rel="lightbox[298]"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-307" title="Palmyra" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/20090326-71.jpg" alt="Palmyra" width="900" height="600" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/20090326-8.jpg" rel="lightbox[298]"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-308" title="Palmyra!" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/20090326-8.jpg" alt="Palmyra!" width="900" height="600" /></a></p>
<div id="attachment_309" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/20090326-91.jpg" rel="lightbox[298]"><img class="size-full wp-image-309" title="Palmyra" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/20090326-91.jpg" alt="Palmyra" width="900" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">The Temple of Bel! The god after whom I was named...I wasn&#39;t sure if I should pray here, or wait and be prayed to...so I just took pictures instead.</p></div>
<p><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/20090326-101.jpg" rel="lightbox[298]"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-310" title="Sunset Over the Castle" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/20090326-101.jpg" alt="Sunset Over the Castle" width="900" height="558" /></a></p>
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		<title>Photography in Aleppo</title>
		<link>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/03/15/photography-in-aleppo/</link>
		<comments>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/03/15/photography-in-aleppo/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 15 Mar 2009 15:12:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ano</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[where am i?]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[photos]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://anobelodisho.com/blog/?p=287</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><div id="attachment_288" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 510px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/200903114.jpg" rel="lightbox[287]"><img class="size-medium wp-image-288" title="photo-taking" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/200903114-500x281.jpg" alt="On the ramparts over Bab Antakya in the Old City, taking some photos, doing some explaining, and eventually wiping some ice icream off my camera.  Photo courtesy of Adam Teale (www.adamteale.com)." width="500" height="281" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">On the ramparts over Bab Antakya in the Old City, taking some photos, doing some explaining, and eventually wiping some ice icream off my camera.  Photo courtesy of Adam Teale (www.adamteale.com).</p></div><!-- PHP 5.x --></p>
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		<title>Aleppo!</title>
		<link>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/03/14/aleppo/</link>
		<comments>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/03/14/aleppo/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 14 Mar 2009 23:44:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ano</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[everything]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://anobelodisho.com/blog/?p=253</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I&#8217;m back in Damascus after an excellent, well needed week away in Aleppo (Halab in Arabic). I&#8217;m also at about the halfway point, and have met three major milestones: I&#8217;m no longer afraid to take pictures.  It took me a full five weeks to get back to my old self. My Arabic has improved to [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;m back in Damascus after an excellent, well needed week away in Aleppo (Halab in Arabic).  I&#8217;m also at about the halfway point, and have met three major milestones:</p>
<ol>
<li>I&#8217;m no longer afraid to take pictures.  It took me a full five weeks to get back to my old self.</li>
<li>My Arabic has improved to the point where I can read the signs on buses fast enough to flag down the right one before it blurs by.</li>
<li>I have had the best shawerma of the trip so far, in a little town called Afamea, about 100m south of the intersection that leads up to the ruins.</li>
</ol>
<p>The trip also took an interesting turn in the cafe attached to a little hotel in Aleppo. I met <a href="http://www.adamteale.com" target="_blank">Adam</a>, a fed-up-with-the-man, job-quitting, <a href="http://www.ted.com" target="_blank">TED</a>-talking, <a href="http://www.apple.com" target="_blank">Mac</a>-toting, <a href="http://www.apple.com/trailers/wb/300/" target="_blank">300</a> video-editing, world-traveling, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Open_source" target="_blank">open-source</a> Australian. We spent two days visiting Roman, Byzantine, and Hittite ruins, taking videos and photos (which will be up soon).  He&#8217;s also much faster at updating his <a href="http://adamteale.com/708/" target="_blank">blog than I am, so check it out for some more photos</a> (I make a cameo appearance, fancy that!).  He&#8217;s inspired me to take more videos to go along with my project, and I may have inspired him to join me in the refugee camp in Damascus to collaborate. Maybe we can put together something impressive.</p>
<div id="attachment_254" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 510px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090312-24.jpg" rel="lightbox[253]"><img class="size-medium wp-image-254" title="Getting around" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090312-24-500x333.jpg" alt="Hitching a ride through the Syrian countryside" width="500" height="333" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Hitching a ride through the Syrian countryside</p></div>
<p> </p>
<div id="attachment_255" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090309-2.jpg" rel="lightbox[253]"><img class="size-full wp-image-255" title="blur" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090309-2.jpg" alt="blur" width="900" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">No crosswalks, no stoplights, no patience.  Only one rule: use your horn as often as you possibly can.</p></div>
<p> </p>
<div id="attachment_261" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 610px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090310-9.jpg" rel="lightbox[253]"><img class="size-full wp-image-261" title="Taxi" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090310-9.jpg" alt="My life flashes before me every time I try to cross the street" width="600" height="900" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">My life flashes before me every time I try to cross the street</p></div>
<p> </p>
<div id="attachment_262" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090311-22.jpg" rel="lightbox[253]"><img class="size-full wp-image-262" title="Taxi Driver" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090311-22.jpg" alt="But up close, they look so harmless" width="900" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">But up close, they look so harmless</p></div>
<p> </p>
<div id="attachment_269" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090313-29.jpg" rel="lightbox[253]"><img class="size-full wp-image-269" title="Traffic Police" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090313-29.jpg" alt="Traffic police: not there." width="900" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Traffic police: not there.</p></div>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<div id="attachment_256" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090310-5.jpg" rel="lightbox[253]"><img class="size-full wp-image-256" title="Cheese" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090310-5.jpg" alt="Yes, those are chunks of cheese.  And yes, they live in very old, dirty, rusty barrels." width="900" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Yes, those are chunks of cheese.  And yes, they live in very old, dirty, rusty barrels.</p></div>
<p> </p>
<div id="attachment_257" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090310-14.jpg" rel="lightbox[253]"><img class="size-full wp-image-257" title="Olives" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090310-14.jpg" alt="Really puts the overpriced olive bar at Whole Foods to shame" width="900" height="658" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Really puts the overpriced olive bar at Whole Foods to shame</p></div>
<p> </p>
<div id="attachment_258" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090310-16.jpg" rel="lightbox[253]"><img class="size-full wp-image-258" title="Skyline" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090310-16.jpg" alt="Before the rain over Aleppo" width="900" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Before the rain over Aleppo</p></div>
<p> </p>
<div id="attachment_259" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090310-6.jpg" rel="lightbox[253]"><img class="size-full wp-image-259" title="Fruit" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090310-6.jpg" alt="Fresh fruit in the Aleppo souq" width="900" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Fresh fruit in the Aleppo souq</p></div>
<p> </p>
<div id="attachment_260" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090310-7.jpg" rel="lightbox[253]"><img class="size-full wp-image-260" title="Pancakes" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090310-7.jpg" alt="A pancake-a-teer" width="900" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">A pancake-a-teer</p></div>
<p> </p>
<div id="attachment_263" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090310-10.jpg" rel="lightbox[253]"><img class="size-full wp-image-263" title="Pyramid" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090310-10.jpg" alt="A pyramid of cumin, decorated with paprika and salt" width="900" height="506" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">A pyramid of cumin, decorated with paprika and salt</p></div>
<p> </p>
<div id="attachment_264" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090310-11.jpg" rel="lightbox[253]"><img class="size-full wp-image-264" title="Nuts" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090310-11.jpg" alt="the nut store." width="900" height="508" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">the nut store.</p></div>
<p> </p>
<div id="attachment_265" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090309-3.jpg" rel="lightbox[253]"><img class="size-full wp-image-265" title="Child labor" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090309-3.jpg" alt="Child labor: working the sewing machine at midnight." width="900" height="547" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Child labor: working the sewing machine at midnight.</p></div>
<p> </p>
<div id="attachment_266" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090310-15.jpg" rel="lightbox[253]"><img class="size-full wp-image-266" title="Shoes" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090310-15.jpg" alt="Shoe repair outside the souq.  There are about 40 of these guys spaced every six feet." width="900" height="595" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Shoe repair outside the souq.  There are about 40 of these guys spaced every six feet.</p></div>
<p> </p>
<div id="attachment_267" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090313-28.jpg" rel="lightbox[253]"><img class="size-full wp-image-267" title="Fresh" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090313-28.jpg" alt="Fresh fruit juice!  I always stop for a tall cold glass of freshly pressed blood-orange juice." width="900" height="650" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Fresh fruit juice!  I always stop for a tall cold glass of freshly pressed blood-orange juice.</p></div>
<p> </p>
<div id="attachment_268" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090311-20.jpg" rel="lightbox[253]"><img class="size-full wp-image-268" title="Beard" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090311-20.jpg" alt="A little beard trim before Friday prayers" width="900" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">A little beard trim before Friday prayers</p></div>
<p> </p>
<div id="attachment_270" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090311-21.jpg" rel="lightbox[253]"><img class="size-full wp-image-270" title="Nasrallah" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090311-21.jpg" alt="Seems he has some fans out here." width="900" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Seems he has some fans out here.</p></div>
<p> </p>
<div id="attachment_271" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090310-8.jpg" rel="lightbox[253]"><img class="size-full wp-image-271" title="Garbage" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090310-8.jpg" alt="Yup, that goes there." width="900" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Yup, that goes there.</p></div>
<p> </p>
<div id="attachment_272" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090313-27.jpg" rel="lightbox[253]"><img class="size-full wp-image-272" title="Cinema" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090313-27.jpg" alt="Cinema with awesome movie poster art" width="900" height="536" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Cinema with awesome movie poster art</p></div>
<p> </p>
<div id="attachment_273" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090310-12.jpg" rel="lightbox[253]"><img class="size-full wp-image-273" title="soccer" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090310-12.jpg" alt="Soccer at the Aleppo Citadel" width="900" height="503" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Soccer at the Aleppo Citadel</p></div>
<p> </p>
<div id="attachment_274" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090311-19.jpg" rel="lightbox[253]"><img class="size-full wp-image-274" title="Service" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090311-19.jpg" alt="Super tiny Chinese buses that wait until 12-15 people pack inside before taking off" width="900" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Super tiny Chinese buses that wait until 12-15 people pack inside before taking off</p></div>
<p> </p>
<div id="attachment_275" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090310-13.jpg" rel="lightbox[253]"><img class="size-full wp-image-275" title="mosque" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090310-13.jpg" alt="Mosque time" width="900" height="600" /></a></dt>
</dl>
</div>
<p> </p>
<div class="mceTemp mceIEcenter">
<dl id="attachment_276" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 910px;">
<dt class="wp-caption-dt"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090312-26.jpg" rel="lightbox[253]"><img class="size-full wp-image-276" title="Police" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090312-26.jpg" alt="One of the nicer police cars I've seen in Syria." width="900" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">One of the nicer police cars I&#39;ve seen in Syria.</p></div>
<p> </p>
<div id="attachment_277" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090311-17.jpg" rel="lightbox[253]"><img class="size-full wp-image-277" title="Carpool" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090311-17.jpg" alt="Hitching a ride to Qala'at as-Samaan.  From L to R, Adam, me, Muhammad, Muhammad, and Ahmed.  Seriously." width="900" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Hitching a ride to Qala&#39;at as-Samaan.  From L to R, Adam, me, Muhammad, Muhammad, and Ahmed.  Seriously.</p></div>
<p> </p>
<div id="attachment_278" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090311-18.jpg" rel="lightbox[253]"><img class="size-full wp-image-278" title="Shepherd" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090311-18.jpg" alt="The good shepherd" width="900" height="466" /></a></dt>
</dl>
</div>
<p> </p>
<div class="mceTemp mceIEcenter">
<dl id="attachment_279" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 910px;">
<dt class="wp-caption-dt"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090313-33.jpg" rel="lightbox[253]"><img class="size-full wp-image-279" title="Afamea" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090313-33.jpg" alt="A ride through the ruins of Afamea" width="900" height="600" /></a></dt>
</dl>
</div>
<p> </p>
<div class="mceTemp mceIEcenter">
<dl id="attachment_280" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 910px;">
<dt class="wp-caption-dt"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090312-23.jpg" rel="lightbox[253]"><img class="size-full wp-image-280" title="Six" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090312-23.jpg" alt="Six on one motorcycle.  125cc of fury." width="900" height="599" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Six on one motorcycle.  125cc of fury.</p></div>
<p> </p>
<p><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090312-25.jpg" rel="lightbox[253]"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-281" title="friend" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090312-25.jpg" alt="friend" width="900" height="600" /></a></p>
<p> </p>
<p><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090313-30.jpg" rel="lightbox[253]"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-282" title="soccer in Afamea" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090313-30.jpg" alt="soccer in Afamea" width="900" height="600" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090313-31.jpg" rel="lightbox[253]"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-283" title="countryside" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090313-31.jpg" alt="countryside" width="900" height="600" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090313-32.jpg" rel="lightbox[253]"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-284" title="Cool kids" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/20090313-32.jpg" alt="Cool kids" width="900" height="573" /></a><!-- PHP 5.x --></p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<slash:comments>3</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Jaramana Skyline</title>
		<link>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/03/07/jaramana-skyline/</link>
		<comments>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/03/07/jaramana-skyline/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 07 Mar 2009 22:03:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ano</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[everything]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[photos]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://anobelodisho.com/blog/?p=246</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><div id="attachment_248" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 510px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/jaramaneh2.jpg" rel="lightbox[246]"><img class="size-medium wp-image-248" title="Jaramana" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/jaramaneh2-500x184.jpg" alt="Skyline of the Jaramana Refugee Camp.  Definitely worth clicking for a full zoom." width="500" height="184" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Skyline of the Jaramana Refugee Camp.  Definitely worth clicking for a full zoom.</p></div><!-- PHP 5.x --></p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/03/07/jaramana-skyline/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>3</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Jaramana Refugee Camp</title>
		<link>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/03/03/jaramana-refugee-camp/</link>
		<comments>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/03/03/jaramana-refugee-camp/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 03 Mar 2009 23:40:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ano</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[everything]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[photos]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://anobelodisho.com/blog/?p=226</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I&#8217;ve been living in a small health clinic on the outskirts of Damascus in a neighborhood called Jaramana.  Its a poor, dirty, muddy, unplanned neighborhood full of un-permitted, uninsulated and haphazard cinderblock construction.  Its also nearly all Iraqi refugees and where about 80% of the Assyrian Iraqi refugees in Damascus live.  The neighborhood, at first [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="mceTemp mceIEcenter" style="text-align: left;">I&#8217;ve been living in a small health clinic on the outskirts of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Damascus">Damascus</a> in a neighborhood called Jaramana.  Its a poor, dirty, muddy, unplanned neighborhood full of un-permitted, uninsulated and haphazard <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cinder_block">cinderblock</a> construction.  Its also nearly all Iraqi refugees and where about 80% of the Assyrian <a href="http://news.google.com/news?pz=1&#038;ned=us&#038;hl=en&#038;q=iraqi+refugee">Iraqi refugees</a> in Damascus live.  The neighborhood, at first glance, looks like a typical second world slum.</div>
<div class="mceTemp mceIEcenter" style="text-align: left;">
<p>
But after a week and half here, I&#8217;ve started to feel a bit like a refugee.  The overwhelming feelings of paranoia, fear, and uncertainty are contagious.  Out in public, nobody smiles and everybody avoids eye contact.  When I do make eye contact, people scowl, look at me suspiciously, or turn away.  And I&#8217;ve started to do the same. You&#8217;re always on edge, even though there isn&#8217;t much physical crime. We&#8217;re all afraid of something, but aren&#8217;t sure what.  And I&#8217;ve begin to understand how insidious living in a repressive dictatorship can be.  All of the refugees here have grown up under <a href="http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://img.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2007/09_04/saddamMS2909_468x328.jpg&#038;imgrefurl=http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-484756/The-great-Saddam-bling-buy-sale-includes-100-000-Rolex-left-palace.html&#038;usg=__0PK2XR9WjYqadKacY0hX4slLisE=&#038;h=328&#038;w=468&#038;sz=55&#038;hl=en&#038;start=8&#038;tbnid=uwyvnDCtSTRsCM:&#038;tbnh=90&#038;tbnw=128&#038;prev=/images%3Fq%3Dsaddam%26gbv%3D2%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DG">Saddam</a> and lived through his worst and apply those life lessons to survival in this country.</p>
<p>
Cuba was not like this.  Cubans were certainly afraid and paranoid and careful, but they were still kind and friendly and hopeful for change.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_227" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/200903022.jpg" rel="lightbox[226]"><img class="size-full wp-image-227" title="Welcome" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/200903022.jpg" alt="Welcome to Jaramana" width="900" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Welcome to Jaramana</p></div>
<div id="attachment_228" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/200903023.jpg" rel="lightbox[226]"><img class="size-full wp-image-228" title="Delivery" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/200903023.jpg" alt="Delivering water (I think).  The unplanned nature of this district has led poor water quality, because it is apparently pumped from shallow wells. Nobody here drinks tap water." width="900" height="567" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Delivering water (I think).  The unplanned nature of this district has led poor water quality, because it is apparently pumped from shallow wells. Nobody here drinks tap water.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_229" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/200903024.jpg" rel="lightbox[226]"><img class="size-full wp-image-229" title="meander" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/200903024.jpg" alt="Out for a meander along the alleys and sidestreets." width="900" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Out for a meander along the alleys and sidestreets.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_230" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/200903025.jpg" rel="lightbox[226]"><img class="size-full wp-image-230" title="Travel" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/200903025.jpg" alt="A little scooter on its last legs, like everything else here." width="900" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">A little scooter on its last legs, like everything else here.</p></div>
<p><div id="attachment_231" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 610px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/200903026.jpg" rel="lightbox[226]"><img class="size-full wp-image-231" title="Here" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/200903026.jpg" alt="The alley where I live" width="600" height="900" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">The alley where I live</p></div><!-- PHP 5.x --></p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<slash:comments>7</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>From Old Damascus</title>
		<link>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/02/28/from-old-damascus/</link>
		<comments>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/02/28/from-old-damascus/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 28 Feb 2009 17:43:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ano</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[where am i?]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[photos]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://anobelodisho.com/blog/?p=211</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="attachment_212" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 510px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/200902261.jpg" rel="lightbox[211]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/200902261-500x333.jpg" alt="just a little self indulgent portraiture" title="old damascus" width="500" height="333" class="size-medium wp-image-212" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">just a little self indulgent portraiture</p></div>
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<div id="attachment_213" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 510px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/200902262.jpg" rel="lightbox[211]"><img src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/200902262-500x351.jpg" alt="I&#039;ve been doing A LOT of this recently. Confined to indoor activities due to rain.  Hopefully it will let up soon." title="coffee" width="500" height="351" class="size-medium wp-image-213" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">I've been doing A LOT of this recently. Confined to indoor activities due to rain.  Hopefully it will let up soon.</p></div><!-- PHP 5.x --></p>
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		<title>The Clinic in Damascus</title>
		<link>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/02/26/the-clinic-in-damascus/</link>
		<comments>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/02/26/the-clinic-in-damascus/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 26 Feb 2009 19:01:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ano</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[everything]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[medicine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[photos]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://anobelodisho.com/blog/?p=196</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Monday was my first day in Damascus, and it was also my first night in the clinic. There were many individuals involved in setting up the clinic, including the Assyrian General Conference and the doctor that runs it, Dr. Milad. Its set up in one of the poorest districts of Damascus, Jeramaneh. That also happens [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p class="MsoNormal">Monday was my first day in Damascus, and it was also my first night in the clinic. There were many individuals involved in setting up the clinic, including the Assyrian General Conference and the doctor that runs it, Dr. Milad.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Its set up in one of the poorest districts of Damascus, Jeramaneh.<span> </span>That also happens to be where most of the Iraqi refugees live, and about 80% of the Assyrian refugees.<span> </span>Its really odd to walk down the street and hear people speaking Assyrian, walk into stores to find Assyrian shopkeepers, go to an Assyrian internet café (or café-net as they’re called here).</p>
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<div id="attachment_197" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 810px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/200902232.jpg" rel="lightbox[196]"><img class="size-full wp-image-197" title="Clinic" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/200902232.jpg" alt="The clinic is a simple, austere outfit.  A small waiting room with nine red plastic chairs and the secretary’s desk.  The only wall decorations are a bare fluorescent bulb, a clock with a painfully loud second hand, a cross, and an antiquated fuse box. To right of the waiting room is the sole examination room." width="800" height="533" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">The clinic is a simple, austere outfit.  A small waiting room with nine red plastic chairs and the secretary’s desk.  The only wall decorations are a bare fluorescent bulb, a clock with a painfully loud second hand, a cross, and an antiquated fuse box. To right of the waiting room is the sole examination room.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_198" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 810px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/2009022311.jpg" rel="lightbox[196]"><img class="size-full wp-image-198" title="The Clinic" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/2009022311.jpg" alt="To the left of the waiting room is a plain room with two beds, where I am staying with Dr. Milad.  A simple room with no real signs of habitation, except a few pieces of clothing hanging behind the door and a cell phone charger clinging to the wall. He has graciously opened his clinic/home to me." width="800" height="533" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">To the left of the waiting room is a plain room with two beds, where I am staying with Dr. Milad.  A simple room with no real signs of habitation, except a few pieces of clothing hanging behind the door and a cell phone charger clinging to the wall. He has graciously opened his clinic/home to me.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_199" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 810px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/200902233.jpg" rel="lightbox[196]"><img class="size-full wp-image-199" title="Exam Room" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/200902233.jpg" alt="The clinic exam room, with the bare minimum of supplies to deal with the stream of patients." width="800" height="533" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">The clinic exam room, with the bare minimum of supplies to deal with the stream of patients.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_200" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 810px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/2009022341.jpg" rel="lightbox[196]"><img class="size-full wp-image-200" title="Medicine Cabinet" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/2009022341.jpg" alt="The medicine cabinet with an assortment of donated medicine from all over the world.  The supply is completely arbitrary and uncertain, and patients only get a week’s worth of meds per visit, even for chronic conditions like diabetes and hypertension.  When we have to give patients medicine, I spend a bit of time digging around, trying to find the right meds, struggling to make out the names, sometimes in Arabic, German, French.  The problem with trade names is that each country has their own, so I rely on the fine print that usually has the generic name, and usually in English." width="800" height="533" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">The medicine cabinet with an assortment of donated medicine from all over the world.  The supply is completely arbitrary and uncertain, and patients only get a week’s worth of meds per visit, even for chronic conditions like diabetes and hypertension.  When we have to give patients medicine, I spend a bit of time digging around, trying to find the right meds, struggling to make out the names, sometimes in Arabic, German, French.  The problem with trade names is that each country has their own, so I rely on the fine print that usually has the generic name, and usually in English.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_201" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 810px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/2009022351.jpg" rel="lightbox[196]"><img class="size-full wp-image-201" title="Bedroom" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/2009022351.jpg" alt="The room I’m sharing with Dr. Milad. Simple. Quiet." width="800" height="533" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">The room I’m sharing with Dr. Milad. Simple. Quiet.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_202" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 810px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/2009022361.jpg" rel="lightbox[196]"><img class="size-full wp-image-202" title="Logbook" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/2009022361.jpg" alt="The secretary, who volunteers all of her evenings in the clinic, registers patients as they arrive.  She also brings us tea and coffee throughout clinic, which is amazing.  Dr. Milad I head to her house after clinic a few blocks away and join her family to watch a hugely popular Turkish soap opera, “As the Days Pass” which has been dubbed into Syrian Arabic.  I only understand about 20% of the words, but am slowly learning." width="800" height="533" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">The secretary, who volunteers all of her evenings in the clinic, registers patients as they arrive.  She also brings us tea and coffee throughout clinic, which is amazing.  Dr. Milad I head to her house after clinic a few blocks away and join her family to watch a hugely popular Turkish soap opera, “As the Days Pass” which has been dubbed into Syrian Arabic.  I only understand about 20% of the words, but am slowly learning.</p></div>
<p><div id="attachment_203" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 810px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/200902257.jpg" rel="lightbox[196]"><img class="size-full wp-image-203" title="valsartan" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/200902257.jpg" alt="There are daily rolling blackouts throughout Damascus lasting two hours.  At the clinic, its from noon to 2 pm, which is fine because the clinic is only open from 6-8 pm.  However, in addition to the standard rolling blackouts, sporadic blackouts also hit.  Tuesday night, we ran clinic with flashlights and candles. A patient brought in her meds, sometimes she takes losartan, and sometimes valsartan depending on availability in the clinic.  Valsartan is written in Arabic as “falsartan”, because Arabic doesn’t have a “v” sound.  Makes trying to decipher medicine names extra tricky.  " width="800" height="533" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">There are daily rolling blackouts throughout Damascus lasting two hours.  At the clinic, its from noon to 2 pm, which is fine because the clinic is only open from 6-8 pm.  However, in addition to the standard rolling blackouts, sporadic blackouts also hit.  Tuesday night, we ran clinic with flashlights and candles. A patient brought in her meds, sometimes she takes losartan, and sometimes valsartan depending on availability in the clinic.  Valsartan is written in Arabic as “falsartan”, because Arabic doesn’t have a “v” sound.  Makes trying to decipher medicine names extra tricky.  </p></div><!-- PHP 5.x --></p>
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		<title>Chaldean Catholic Church of Amman</title>
		<link>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/02/26/chaldean-catholic-church-of-amman/</link>
		<comments>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/02/26/chaldean-catholic-church-of-amman/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 26 Feb 2009 17:56:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ano</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[everything]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[church]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[photos]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://anobelodisho.com/blog/?p=176</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[In the absence of any governmental support for refugees, the church becomes the only institution that provides any social services. As a result, in Amman the churches are the epicenter of the refugee crisis. The Chaldean Catholic Church has 7,000 members and one priest, Fr. Raymound Moussoulli. The population here has also been in massive [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>In the absence of any governmental support for refugees, the church becomes the only institution that provides any social services. As a result, in Amman the churches are the epicenter of the refugee crisis.  The Chaldean Catholic Church has 7,000 members and one priest, Fr. Raymound Moussoulli.  The population here has also been in massive flux, as the increased rate of foreign visas being issued has helped many of the members head to the West.</p>
<p>He describes the church mission to me in four parts: pastoral services, spiritual services, psychological services, and social services.  The pastoral services include home visits and certain services. As far as spiritual services, being the only priest for a community of 7,000, Fr. Moussoulli holds services 9 times per week, once each evening and three services in different neighborhoods of Amman on Sundays.  A grueling schedule shows clearly on Sunday night.  The psychological services involve all sorts of family counseling, dealing with marital problems, and helping families cope with being away from their homes and often apart from each other.  As far as social services go, there are a lot.  The church turns into an ad-hoc school during the day with informal classes for children from families that can’t pay to go to Jordanian schools.  The church also helps pay tuition for some children enrolled in schools, which can cost about 500 Jordanian Dinars (~700 USD) per year.  They help families find places to live, fill out <a href="http://www.unhcr.org">UN HCR (High Commissioner for Refugees)</a> paperwork,  find work, and get them plugged in to various NGOs (Caritas, Mercy Call).</p>
<p>On the day I attended services, there were snacks and sandwiches celebrating a family of five that had been accepted to Canada.  Fr. Moussoulli, always happy and supportive when families found a more permanent home, noted that with the high flux of refugees, it was hard to keep the church’s services functioning.</p>
<div id="attachment_187" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 810px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/2009022211.jpg" rel="lightbox[176]"><img class="size-full wp-image-187" title="Chaldean Catholic Church" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/2009022211.jpg" alt="A converted basement of an apartment building. Cozy, to say the least." width="800" height="533" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">A converted basement of an apartment building. Cozy, to say the least.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_188" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 810px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/2009022221.jpg" rel="lightbox[176]"><img class="size-full wp-image-188" title="Salvation" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/2009022221.jpg" alt="Two competing sources of salvation, as a flier from the UNHCR gets more bulletin board space than a picture of Jesus." width="800" height="533" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Two competing sources of salvation, as a flier from the UNHCR gets more bulletin board space than a picture of Jesus.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_189" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 585px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/2009022231.jpg" rel="lightbox[176]"><img class="size-full wp-image-189" title="Morning Mass" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/2009022231.jpg" alt="Entering church for morning service." width="575" height="800" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Entering church for morning service.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_190" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 810px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/2009022241.jpg" rel="lightbox[176]"><img class="size-full wp-image-190" title="Paperwork" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/2009022241.jpg" alt="Fr. Moussoulli checks a passport and helps fill out an apartment rental application for one of his members." width="800" height="533" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Fr. Moussoulli checks a passport and helps fill out an apartment rental application for one of his members.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_191" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 810px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/2009022251.jpg" rel="lightbox[176]"><img class="size-full wp-image-191" title="Fr. Moussoulli" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/2009022251.jpg" alt="Fr. Moussoulli finally has a moment to take a break, as Sundays are particularly busy with three sermons in different parts of the city and many people seeking his help." width="800" height="533" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Fr. Moussoulli finally has a moment to take a break, as Sundays are particularly busy with three sermons in different parts of the city and many people seeking his help.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_192" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 810px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/2009022261.jpg" rel="lightbox[176]"><img class="size-full wp-image-192" title="Sunday Evening Mass" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/2009022261.jpg" alt="Sunday evening mass" width="800" height="533" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Sunday evening mass</p></div>
<p><div id="attachment_183" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/200902227.jpg" rel="lightbox[176]"><img class="size-full wp-image-183" title="Weary" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/200902227.jpg" alt="Weary after his ninth mass of the week." width="900" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Weary after his ninth mass of the week.</p></div><!-- PHP 5.x --></p>
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		<title>Syrian Border</title>
		<link>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/02/26/syrian-border/</link>
		<comments>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/02/26/syrian-border/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 26 Feb 2009 17:08:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ano</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[where am i?]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[photos]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://anobelodisho.com/blog/?p=168</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Its pretty sad when it only takes about 3 minutes to bypass the government firewall and post (thanks to the Tor anonymous proxy). Photos as my little service taxi heads across the Syrian border. The meds aren’t with me (which made for an easy border crossing). They’re headed to Damascus thanks to the help of [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Its pretty sad when it only takes about 3 minutes to bypass the government firewall and post (thanks to the Tor anonymous proxy).<span> </span>Photos as my little service taxi heads across the Syrian border.<span> </span>The meds aren’t with me (which made for an easy border crossing). They’re headed to Damascus thanks to the help of a priest, a doctor, and a vegetable truck driver. We’ll see if they ever arrive.<span> </span>More on that later.</span></p>
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<div id="attachment_169" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/200902234.jpg" rel="lightbox[168]"><img class="size-full wp-image-169" title="Syrian Border Ahead" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/200902234.jpg" alt="Syrian Border Ahead" width="900" height="615" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Syrian Border Ahead</p></div>
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<div id="attachment_170" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/200902235.jpg" rel="lightbox[168]"><img class="size-full wp-image-170" title="Bye Bye Jordan!" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/200902235.jpg" alt="Bye Bye Jordan" width="900" height="641" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Bye Bye Jordan</p></div>
<p><div id="attachment_171" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 910px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/200902236.jpg" rel="lightbox[168]"><img class="size-full wp-image-171" title="Hello Syria!" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/200902236.jpg" alt="Hello Syria!" width="900" height="479" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Hello Syria!</p></div><!-- PHP 5.x --></p>
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		<title>Barber Shop</title>
		<link>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/02/21/barber-shop/</link>
		<comments>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/02/21/barber-shop/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 21 Feb 2009 14:13:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ano</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[everything]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[photos]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://anobelodisho.com/blog/?p=139</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I’ve always wanted to shave my head, and on an impulse I popped into the local barber shop. My Arabic is quickly improving, and while I cant say I’m “intermediate” or “beginner”, functionally I’ve gone from being scared to try to speak to being able to feed myself and now to barbershop banter. Off it [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I’ve always wanted to shave my head, and on an impulse I popped into the local barber shop. My Arabic is quickly improving, and while I cant say I’m “intermediate” or “beginner”, functionally I’ve gone from being scared to try to speak to being able to feed myself and now to barbershop banter. Off it goes with a straight razor. The barber also wanted to do my beard to make me look like some famous Jordanian singer, so there we go.</p>
<div id="attachment_140" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 510px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/2009022019.jpg" rel="lightbox[139]"><img class="size-medium wp-image-140" title="Barber Shop" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/2009022019-500x333.jpg" alt="Caption: although the picture of me is blurry, check out the top left corner for my favorite part of the photo: the photographer, one of the barbers!" width="500" height="333" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Although the picture of me is blurry, check out the top left corner for my favorite part of the photo: the photographer, one of the barbers!</p></div>
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<div id="attachment_146" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 510px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/20090220201.jpg" rel="lightbox[139]"><img class="size-medium wp-image-146" title="The Finished Product" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/20090220201-500x333.jpg" alt="So? Whaddya think? Maybe needs a little tan though..." width="500" height="333" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">So? Whaddya think? Maybe needs a little tan though...</p></div>
<div id="attachment_145" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 510px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/20090220211.jpg" rel="lightbox[139]"><img class="size-medium wp-image-145" title="Lunch" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/20090220211-500x333.jpg" alt="Lunch at Al-Bouney Saloon (that's right, Saloon)" width="500" height="333" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Lunch at Al-Bouney Saloon (that&#39;s right, Saloon)</p></div>
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		<title>Cancelled Wadi Rum</title>
		<link>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/02/21/cancelled-wadi-rum/</link>
		<comments>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/02/21/cancelled-wadi-rum/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 21 Feb 2009 14:04:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ano</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[everything]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[photos]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://anobelodisho.com/blog/?p=136</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[My tentative plans for a 3 day camel trek through the desert in Wadi Rum were junked thanks to some strong winds and a mini-sandstorm. Cloudy, overcast, slightly foggy, and really sandy put visibility at less than a 100 meters, so I’ll be coming back in April for the camel trek when the weather improves. [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <o:OfficeDocumentSettings> <o:AllowPNG /> </o:OfficeDocumentSettings> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:TrackMoves>false</w:TrackMoves> <w:TrackFormatting /> <w:PunctuationKerning /> <w:DrawingGridHorizontalSpacing>18 pt</w:DrawingGridHorizontalSpacing> <w:DrawingGridVerticalSpacing>18 pt</w:DrawingGridVerticalSpacing> <w:DisplayHorizontalDrawingGridEvery>0</w:DisplayHorizontalDrawingGridEvery> <w:DisplayVerticalDrawingGridEvery>0</w:DisplayVerticalDrawingGridEvery> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas /> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables /> <w:DontGrowAutofit /> <w:DontAutofitConstrainedTables /> <w:DontVertAlignInTxbx /> </w:Compatibility> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="276"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]><br />
<mce:style><!   /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable 	{mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; 	mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; 	mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; 	mso-style-noshow:yes; 	mso-style-parent:""; 	mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; 	mso-para-margin:0in; 	mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; 	mso-pagination:widow-orphan; 	font-size:12.0pt; 	font-family:"Times New Roman"; 	mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria; 	mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; 	mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; 	mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast; 	mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria; 	mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;} --></p>
<p><!--[endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <o:shapedefaults v:ext="edit" spidmax="1026" /> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <o:shapelayout v:ext="edit"> <o:idmap v:ext="edit" data="1" /> </o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--> <!--StartFragment--><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: Cambria;">My tentative plans for a 3 day camel trek through the desert in Wadi Rum were junked thanks to some strong winds and a mini-sandstorm.<span> </span>Cloudy, overcast, slightly foggy, and really sandy put visibility at less than a 100 meters, so I’ll be coming back in April for the camel trek when the weather improves.<span> </span>Definitely a huge bonus that my camera and lenses are is sealed against moisture/sand/dust, too bad my eyes and mouth arent.</span></p>
<p><div id="attachment_137" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 510px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/2009022018.jpg" rel="lightbox[136]"><img class="size-medium wp-image-137" title="Sandstorm" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/2009022018-500x333.jpg" alt="Dust and sand on the Desert Highway" width="500" height="333" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Dust and sand on the Desert Highway</p></div><!-- PHP 5.x --></p>
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		<title>Petra Photos</title>
		<link>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/02/21/petra-photos/</link>
		<comments>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/02/21/petra-photos/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 21 Feb 2009 13:47:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ano</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[everything]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[jordan]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[photos]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[ruins]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://anobelodisho.com/blog/?p=114</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I spent two days exploring Petra, and it is definitely amazing. The key was getting up well before sunrise and hiking through the Siq all alone and being the first person to arrive at the Treasury façade to watch the sun rise onto it. I had the entire imposing monument in silence all to myself [...]]]></description>
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<p class="MsoNormal">I spent two days exploring Petra, and it is definitely amazing. The key was getting up well before sunrise and hiking through the Siq all alone and being the first person to arrive at the Treasury façade to watch the sun rise onto it.<span> </span>I had the entire imposing monument in silence all to myself for a few hours until everyone else began to trickle in.<span> </span>Its an entire city carved into the red sandstone hills and you need at least a week to fully explore it (&gt;45km of main trails to monuments).<span> </span>The most enduring feeling is just the sheer size of the carved facades.<span> </span>On the second day, I logged 19.5 km of hiking (thanks GPS!) and the shawerma at the end of the day definitely hit the spot.<span> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>I hate taking pictures of major monuments&#8230;everyone has seen them (in person or in photos) and because they are so huge, there are only so many unique ways of portraying them. Although I did take all of the basic site photos, I wont bother posting them (you&#8217;re all big enough to do a flickr search).  But I will post a few photos&#8230;</span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">
<div id="attachment_115" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 454px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/2009021911.jpg" rel="lightbox[114]"><img class="size-medium wp-image-115" title="Treasure Facade" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/2009021911-444x600.jpg" alt="For scale, thats me at the front entrance.  The only way to get a solo shot is to be there at 6 am..." width="444" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">For scale, thats me at the front entrance.  The only way to get a solo shot is to be there at 6 am...</p></div>
<div id="attachment_116" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 510px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/2009021912.jpg" rel="lightbox[114]"><img class="size-medium wp-image-116" title="The Amphitheater" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/2009021912-500x333.jpg" alt="Hanging out at the giant amphitheater" width="500" height="333" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Hanging out at the giant amphitheater</p></div>
<p class="MsoNormal">
<div id="attachment_130" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 510px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/20090219153.jpg" rel="lightbox[114]"><img class="size-medium wp-image-130" title="Khosro the Khmara" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/20090219153-500x333.jpg" alt="One condition of this trip was that I promised my mom I would ride a donkey…so here’s the proof.  I named my donkey Khosro (Khosro the khmara) and he helped me make it to one of the peaks overlooking Wadi Arabi.  Side note: its way more difficult to ride a donkey and take pictures at the same time than I could have imagined." width="500" height="333" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">One condition of this trip was that I promised my mom I would ride a donkey…so here’s the proof.  I named my donkey Khosro (Khosro the khmara) and he helped me make it to one of the peaks overlooking Wadi Arabi.  Side note: its way more difficult to ride a donkey and take pictures at the same time than I could have imagined.</p></div>
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<div id="attachment_128" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 510px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/20090219131.jpg" rel="lightbox[114]"><img class="size-medium wp-image-128" title="Givargis the Goomla" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/20090219131-500x333.jpg" alt="Givargis the Goomla.  Don't let his intensely fierce expression fool you, he's actually pretty nice." width="500" height="333" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Don&#39;t let his intensely fierce expression fool you, he&#39;s actually pretty nice.</p></div>
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<div id="attachment_120" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 510px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/2009021914.jpg" rel="lightbox[114]"><img class="size-medium wp-image-120" title="Givargis the Goomla" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/2009021914-500x333.jpg" alt="Except when he tries to eat my camera." width="500" height="333" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Except when he tries to eat my camera.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_121" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 510px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/2009021916.jpg" rel="lightbox[114]"><img class="size-medium wp-image-121" title="Outpost" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/2009021916-500x333.jpg" alt="Outpost overlooking Wadi Araba" width="500" height="333" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Outpost overlooking Wadi Araba</p></div>
<div id="attachment_122" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 510px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/2009022125.jpg" rel="lightbox[114]"><img class="size-medium wp-image-122" title="The Monastery" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/2009022125-500x434.jpg" alt="Five or six of me to give the picture scale. Just a little twist on the standard &quot;Look at me in front of some major monument&quot; photo." width="500" height="434" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Five or six of me to give the picture scale. Just a little twist on the standard &quot;Look at me in front of some major monument&quot; photo.</p></div>
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		<item>
		<title>Cafes</title>
		<link>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/02/21/cafes/</link>
		<comments>http://anobelodisho.com/blog/2009/02/21/cafes/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 21 Feb 2009 13:20:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ano</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[everything]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[photos]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://anobelodisho.com/blog/?p=109</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Lots of little cafés tucked in alleyways and sidestreets all over Amman. But these aren’t your standard Starbucks or even the dimly lit cushy cafes out of Arabian Nights. Up little sets of stairs you enter a harshly fluorescently lit room hazy with sheesha smoke, with dingy floors and cracked plastic chairs, where everyone sits [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><!--[endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <o:shapedefaults v:ext="edit" spidmax="1026" /> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <o:shapelayout v:ext="edit"> <o:idmap v:ext="edit" data="1" /> </o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--> <!--StartFragment--></p>
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<div id="attachment_110" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 410px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/200902179.jpg" rel="lightbox[109]"><img class="size-medium wp-image-110" title="Al Rasheed Cafe" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/200902179-400x600.jpg" alt="Entrance to the Al Rasheed Cafe" width="400" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Entrance to the Al Rasheed Cafe</p></div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Lots of little cafés tucked in alleyways and sidestreets all over Amman.<span> </span>But these aren’t your standard Starbucks or even the dimly lit cushy cafes out of Arabian Nights.<span> </span>Up little sets of stairs you enter a harshly fluorescently lit room hazy with sheesha smoke, with dingy floors and cracked plastic chairs, where everyone sits with their own sheesha around tables playing cards and drinking tea.</p>
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<div id="attachment_111" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 510px"><a href="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/200902174.jpg" rel="lightbox[109]"><img class="size-medium wp-image-111" title="Grumpy" src="http://anobelodisho.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/200902174-500x333.jpg" alt="A fierce game of cards in the works" width="500" height="333" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">A fierce game of cards in the works</p></div>
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