dispatches from here

Aleppo!

by ano on Mar.14, 2009, under everything

I’m back in Damascus after an excellent, well needed week away in Aleppo (Halab in Arabic). I’m also at about the halfway point, and have met three major milestones:

  1. I’m no longer afraid to take pictures.  It took me a full five weeks to get back to my old self.
  2. My Arabic has improved to the point where I can read the signs on buses fast enough to flag down the right one before it blurs by.
  3. I have had the best shawerma of the trip so far, in a little town called Afamea, about 100m south of the intersection that leads up to the ruins.

The trip also took an interesting turn in the cafe attached to a little hotel in Aleppo. I met Adam, a fed-up-with-the-man, job-quitting, TED-talking, Mac-toting, 300 video-editing, world-traveling, open-source Australian. We spent two days visiting Roman, Byzantine, and Hittite ruins, taking videos and photos (which will be up soon).  He’s also much faster at updating his blog than I am, so check it out for some more photos (I make a cameo appearance, fancy that!).  He’s inspired me to take more videos to go along with my project, and I may have inspired him to join me in the refugee camp in Damascus to collaborate. Maybe we can put together something impressive.

Hitching a ride through the Syrian countryside

Hitching a ride through the Syrian countryside

 

blur

No crosswalks, no stoplights, no patience. Only one rule: use your horn as often as you possibly can.

 

My life flashes before me every time I try to cross the street

My life flashes before me every time I try to cross the street

 

But up close, they look so harmless

But up close, they look so harmless

 

Traffic police: not there.

Traffic police: not there.

 

 

 

 

Yes, those are chunks of cheese.  And yes, they live in very old, dirty, rusty barrels.

Yes, those are chunks of cheese. And yes, they live in very old, dirty, rusty barrels.

 

Really puts the overpriced olive bar at Whole Foods to shame

Really puts the overpriced olive bar at Whole Foods to shame

 

Before the rain over Aleppo

Before the rain over Aleppo

 

Fresh fruit in the Aleppo souq

Fresh fruit in the Aleppo souq

 

A pancake-a-teer

A pancake-a-teer

 

A pyramid of cumin, decorated with paprika and salt

A pyramid of cumin, decorated with paprika and salt

 

the nut store.

the nut store.

 

Child labor: working the sewing machine at midnight.

Child labor: working the sewing machine at midnight.

 

Shoe repair outside the souq.  There are about 40 of these guys spaced every six feet.

Shoe repair outside the souq. There are about 40 of these guys spaced every six feet.

 

Fresh fruit juice!  I always stop for a tall cold glass of freshly pressed blood-orange juice.

Fresh fruit juice! I always stop for a tall cold glass of freshly pressed blood-orange juice.

 

A little beard trim before Friday prayers

A little beard trim before Friday prayers

 

Seems he has some fans out here.

Seems he has some fans out here.

 

Yup, that goes there.

Yup, that goes there.

 

Cinema with awesome movie poster art

Cinema with awesome movie poster art

 

Soccer at the Aleppo Citadel

Soccer at the Aleppo Citadel

 

Super tiny Chinese buses that wait until 12-15 people pack inside before taking off

Super tiny Chinese buses that wait until 12-15 people pack inside before taking off

 

Mosque time

 

One of the nicer police cars I've seen in Syria.

One of the nicer police cars I've seen in Syria.

 

Hitching a ride to Qala'at as-Samaan.  From L to R, Adam, me, Muhammad, Muhammad, and Ahmed.  Seriously.

Hitching a ride to Qala'at as-Samaan. From L to R, Adam, me, Muhammad, Muhammad, and Ahmed. Seriously.

 

The good shepherd

 

A ride through the ruins of Afamea

 

Six on one motorcycle.  125cc of fury.

Six on one motorcycle. 125cc of fury.

 

friend

 

soccer in Afamea

countryside

Cool kids

:,

3 Comments for this entry

  • Elbroon

    Ano,

    I am proud to say that I am loving it! You are now becoming a real blogger. Once you arrived in syria, your blog was dark and lackluster in hope. With the newly added photos and experiences you bring reborn hope to my mind.

    keep it up

  • alphonse odisho

    Nice photoes anobel. I see some liveliness there.The patern on tiles in the cheese store is like the decorations on the doors in the olive store. Don’t be scared of rust try that fresh cheese, your immunity will go up.
    You thought only San francisco coffe co. had fresh roasted coffee, how about fresh roasted nuts?

  • Melita

    dearest cuzo,

    i love the pictures! they make me feel like i’m in on the action. the life and vibrancy you were able to capture is amazing, keep it up! hope the rest of your trip goes well.

    <3

Leave a Reply

Powered by WP Hashcash

Looking for something?

Use the form below to search the site:

Still not finding what you're looking for? Drop a comment on a post or contact us so we can take care of it!